How To: C15a Wire-3 restoration

[Jordan Baker]

Today I started fitting the wooden boards that attach to the canopy framework. These were supposed to be used for keeping the canopy frames in place whenever the framework was removed from the truck in the ground station role. I still have to drill and screw in a number of footman loops. I believe these were used to strap on the skirt extensions.

[David Dunlop]

Hi Jordan.

Smart idea using the wood stiffeners for the canopy frame. Whenever the canopy went remote from the vehicle, were the open ends of the tubular framework simply plunked down on the ground, or were a set of feet/supports provided to prevent the canopy from sinking into soft ground?

David

[Jordan Baker]

Hi David. Yes there were extension poles that fit into the canopy frame. The AEDB design record mentions them.

[Bob Carriere]

On the assumption that your bows are all original could you share some dimension information. I have to build a set from scratch.

ID and OD would be nice as well as the height of the pipe for the bows.

what kinds/size of fasteners used..... carriage bolts... any wing nuts???

have you tried your repro canvass on it??? interested as I have the same repro from Stew. Can the sides be actually rolled leaving you with a canopy for shade.

Thanks

[Jordan Baker]

Bob I've posted some drawings of the canopy with dimensions. Were you needing the measurements of the three uprights? The wire-3 canopy frame was a lot more extensive then the regular canopy. As for how they are attached. Nothing more complicated then some 10-24 slotted machine screws and nuts and lock washers.

[Jordan Baker]

I decided to put on the canvas top the other day. This helps to free up space on a shelf and also will help keep the dust out of the back of the box. Plus it helps to make it look like things are moving along.

I ended up using the original wooden runners that were still with the box when I got it. For the most part they were in great shape. Even retaining a lot of really nice original paint. The one runner did suffer from some rot on both ends and bugs in one spot. I removed as much dry rot as I could and then decided to use some 2 part epoxy casting resin I had. The stuff is very hard wearing. I did some pours to fill in the voids from the original rot. I also made some simple molds from steel plate I had. I then poured the resin in and let it setup before removing the plates. I then used a belt sander to do some finishing touches and blending of the resin into the original wood. This was all then painted up.

When I went to install them, I had to jack up one side of the box and then inset them in from the sides. After getting both in, I realized that they come in a left and right pair and well let just say I got my straw foot and right foot mixed up. So jack up the box again and swap them around.

[Jordan Baker]

I managed to use the original footman loops that were on the box as well. I also picked up a supply of NOS ones from a dealer in the states thanks to Ebay. They matched my originals perfectly. Im using NOS woodscrews as the originals were too far gone. Its times like this that Im glad I pickup old jars of screws from people. Sometimes this older stuff comes in handy considering the slotted stuff is getting harder to find.

I also moved the WS19 into the truck. More right now just to get it out of the way. I still need to go through it and give it a good dusting and cleaning up. Plus I need to get some new shocks mounts for it.

Lastly I got the box to frame threaded rods I needed from a local shop. I figured I should do the usual POR15 and paint thing on them. So today I sandblasted them and POR'd them and then while the POR was still a bit tacky I spray painted on the final top coat. Ive done this a few times and it works really well. The paint seems to get bonded to the almost cured POR and makes it very tough.