new carrier track pins

[Bruce Parker (RIP)]

I haven't done it but think it's worth while. Rather than machining I'd go with lengths of 7/16" rod with a washer welded to one side. Same on the other unless you want to do the whole track with cotter pin/washers.

I think this may be an option to give more life to worn out track. The holes in the track links wear to oval which you can't do much with, but the links themselves wear and 'notch' on the bearing surfaces so replacing them with as new diameter pins will gain you back a good number of links.

[The Bedford Boys]

Wouldn't be too hard to make up a little jig to go in a press to form the heads on some 7/16" rod, they're not flared out all that much. Do 5 at a time or something like that. The trouble here in NZ is getting 7/16" rod in anything more than mild.

I'm using lead plug track, so it's just plain pins. Otherwise it'd be fun to have a go at making some headed pins

[Andrew Rowe]

Back in the day, steel companies over here imported 7/16" "centreless" ground rod. I think this was a medium tensile steel and I guess you would still get this State side. As Alex has eluded to , it would be far more cost effective to form the head by the rivet making method, ie. heating the end whacking with a former. We made rivets for the M3 Stuart Tank in an old railways rivet making machine, which all you had to do was cut the rod to length, heat the end, drop it in the holder, and pull the lever, and "wamo" , you had a rivet , so making a track pin is the same principle, just using a longer shaft. Cheers Andrew.

[RichardT10829]

I have LOTS of these to make... I need to find one of the many old track pin threads to get the exact steel, but from memory it was a chromoly type steel.


DO NOT USE STAINLESS


If you are forming the heads you will need to make a precision jig for the pin to prevent swelling at the formed end.

I am currently making rivet snaps for people at the moment, so perhaps I need to make a tool for the pin ends too

I don't like the idea of the entire track length being pinned using split pins (cotter pins to the Colonials)

I have an idea of forming a second threaded button which can be wound onto the pin once fitted with suitable compound to fix it in place.

In our small "Suffolk Syndicate" this will be my project for the builds we have ahead this year.

[Lynn Eades]

The pins were heat treated, but the heads were soft. Yes 7/16" (0.437???)

[RichardT10829]

That being the case Lynn, get the steel, form the ends etc then send them off for heat treatment to harden. place near me can do that no probs.

[Jim Burrill]

Richard... would it make sense to join forces to get a shit-load of them made up?

I wish I could have all the pins reened at both ends, but can live with the washers and split pins on the inside and not really visable.

Sounds like adding a washer and welding the washer on may make it harder to knock one out for shortening a link or fixing a break in the field.

I am thinking all the longer ones with the hole drilled.

I would be up for 300.

I have a good machine shop nearby, but have not run this project by them. I am wary that their solution would be expensive....

Jim