![]() |
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Might be worth checking out a local chain link fence supplier, Tony. Their posts usually come in several diameters and are quite thick walled.
David |
#2
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
Thanks Jack, that would be greatly appreciated.
David, we have several steel suppliers in town, with a large array in stock. If not in stock, but is available, they can order it in.
__________________
Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still) Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder) |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Those posts would be galvanized. That would not be correct nor conducive to welding the ends on.
The tube portion of the handspike is 40" long and has an OD of 2-1/8. Judging by the feel of the weight, they are a fairly heavy wall tubing. The tapered end is riveted on, the round end cap appears to be spotwelded. |
#4
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
Thanks Rob.
Pretty much every size steel tube that's galvanised, is also available in black steel. I have welded galvanised in past, after grinding the coating off, but don't like the stuff. My welder friend says the galvanising fumes are dangerous, so if you missed some with the grinder, or didn't take enough clearance, it could be a health risk. I don't need any extra health problems. When i was a spraypainter (which in hindsight was the most satisfying job I ever had), and bearing in mind I was still young & stupid, I didn't always wear the breathing protection I should have. Some days I'd finish work with whatever color I had been spraying, all around my nostrils. Real clever stuff! Without going to any trouble, does anyone have some good closeup photos of the ends of a real hand spike? If you've got a photo already, I would love to see that. I'll try to get my version as close to original as I can, but because the socket that takes the spike is tapered, I'm gonna need to give thought to HOW I can reproduce that appearance. First thought that came to mind, was to put a number of cuts down one end of a short steel tube, and then force them together before welding them in place, creating the taper. Might need to call on my welder buddy again, to heat the thing before I bend the cut portions together. If my calculations are correct, a hand spike is 101cm long by 54mm OD. I seriously doubt there is a absolutely correct sixe tube, but will look into it anyway. May need to use 50mm tube instead.
__________________
Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still) Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder) Last edited by Private_collector; 10-02-17 at 21:17. |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
We have a couple 25 pounders (one normal, one as per funeral carriage) just 100 feet from my desk, so I walked over just now and snapped a bunch of photos of one handspike. I also measured this one and the diameter is 2.019, so there appears to be variation in the tube sizes. I'm guessing 2" tubing would be fine. I also found a pin holding the end cap on, and note the endcap appears to be brass.
Of the four handspikes in this location, one of them does not have rivets. I did not have a closer look to see if they are merely burnished flush or if the ends are welded on. Here are the shots next to a tape. (the tape may have shifted a little in the second photo). |
#6
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
Thank you Rob!
That's brilliant. Pretty much all i needed to know, with the other info given in previous day or so. Much appreciated, Gentlemen. Local steel shop gas 50mm tube, in wall thickness of 1.6mm, up to over 4mm. 2-3mm should be fine. I'll go with 3mm, just to be sure. Brass ends on the non fitting end, would be nice. It's time I looked into getting a lathe anyway. Before i can fit one in, I need to make some further progress on the truck build. Cab roof needs finishing and put on the cab, which in turn gas to go onto the chassis. Once those jobs are done, I will have much more room in my workshop. SHOULD even have room to set up the 25pr axle in a location to start work on the trails! The weather here is oppressive at the moment. My plan to get as much assembly done on the sight assembly tomorrow, is fortunate. That's about the most energetic work I can do in such heat. They are predicting 40 degrees Celsius. That is roughly 106F, if my calculations are right. Dreadful, when you factor in the humidity. I would happily relocate somewhere considerably colder, but it's not practical.
__________________
Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still) Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder) |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
The hand spikes shown are a later type to replace the early, thinner version with the old style rope grips. Make sure the od pipe you use will fit in the trail bracket before you start making them
![]() |
#8
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
I'm not worried about them fitting their brackets, Wayne. I've not made brackets yet.
No, I tell a lie, I made brackets x2 a long time ago, but they wouldn't fit anything bigger than a broom. Call them a test run. The sight asembly is 90% together now. 20170212_142146-1-resized-1024.jpg 2017-02-12 15.06.07-resized-1024.jpg I still need one last, but significant piece. It's the one that makes the lateral adjustment possible. If I can't find one, I have to make one. I really don't want to do that. 2017-02-12 15.07.05-resized-1024.jpg 2017-02-12 15.08.58-resized-1024.jpg
__________________
Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still) Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder) |
![]() |
|
|
![]() |
||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
Reel Info Needed | Barry Churcher | The Restoration Forum | 5 | 12-04-13 01:37 |
17 pounder anti-tank gun ammo box info | Kurtis Tsang | WW2 Military History & Equipment | 3 | 24-08-09 19:09 |
FWD more info needed | bria0789 | The Softskin Forum | 9 | 14-07-07 09:17 |
Need Info about the 2 Pounder Anti Tank Gun | Marco C. | The Restoration Forum | 0 | 27-09-06 12:48 |
fox info needed | Roger Condron | The Armour Forum | 31 | 19-10-05 22:33 |