How To: C15a Wire-3 restoration

[RHClarke]

My 45 HUP hip ring was secured with hex head 1/4 in bolts. I have no idea if they were original or not, but I bought modern versions of them for my newly delivered JB Hip Ring. I still have not fitted the ring as things are kind of hectic around here with a family member taking residence in a local hospital. I can tell you that I am eagerly anticipating my next visit to the Hammond Barn.

Good luck with the remainder of your project!

[rob love]

I have been using these guys for various old style screws and fasteners. Price isn't bad, and best thing is they are not plated. They are also available in oxide black, which has a nice look and readily accepts paint.

http://www.blacksmithbolt.com/

They have 3 basic rules there: no hex, no phillips, and no zinc. They also add:

Of course, since we specialize in old-fashioned fasteners, you can also assume several additional rules, including but not limited to: No Pop-Rivets, No Torx, No Metric, and No Combo.

[Jordan Baker]

I wonder if there had been a production change along the way. I know that mine uses counter sunk screws pushed in from the bottom. The backing ring that fits on the inside of the roof has all the holes countersunk.

Great site Rob. They have quite the collection. I don't mind the zinc as it helps keeps the threads rust free longer. A few years ago I made up a plate to hol a pile of fasteners so I can sandblast off the zinc from the head. Then spray self etch primer all without having them fall over. Works great.

[David Herbert]

Most zinc plated fasteners have a tiny amount of zinc on them, just enough that they look pretty on delivery. This is very easily removed in some old battery acid overnight if you really hate it. When you pull them out give them a good wash in clean, hot water and ideally a dip in a phosphoric acid based rust remover.

I totaly agree about no Phillips/Pozy screw heads but there are some Phillips heads that were originally used in the turret of Shermans which really suprised me. From memory they are in part of the stabliser mechanism.

David

[Jordan Baker]

Ive thought about soaking them but I find the sandblasting cabinet works very fast for me. With my home made holder I can then prime them again before using them.

And with a quick phone call to Fastenal this morning to confirm that my order was in. I made the drive to my local store.

Before installing I used up the last of my anti-squeak material lining both sides of the wooden spacer ring. Once this was on, it was onto the install and everything lined up rather well with the aid of some long punches. Not pictured is the after look of cutting down the too long screws and using a sanding disk to smooth them down to the nuts.

I just have to make up the small metal curved strip that secures the canvas cover.

[Jordan Baker]

Ive been a little busy working on some side projects before winter arrived so hence the lack of updates on the CMP project.

This past week I picked up the basic steel needed for making up the tail gate on my wire-3 box. I plan on forming all of the channels myself on a metal brake I picked up.

Right now I'm just working on cutting out the basic shape in 14ga sheet.

[Bob Carriere]

....... any pictures of the braking beauty????

Watching with great interest, has I have to do one for the my cab 11. Still debating whether to patch up the best 2B1 box I have or build a one new from scratch using what models I have as a pattern.

Did you ever noticed the difference ( and lessons learned from ripped pant seat bottoms).....

Viewed from the rear when closed the cab 11 tailgate is all smooth with all the bracing on the inside...... so when held open with chain you had a rough surface to sit on....

On the cab 13, all the bracing is facing outside ( so you have to do a good welding/fabricating job) and when the tailgate is open the inside is smooth........

Grant has found his jig for making his hinges from strap steel and should be posting soon.

Cheers