An Introduction: Chris Collins and Morris Tilly Project

[jack neville]

I cut a bit further along this rusty section of sub frame as it had another pin holed area a few centimetres further down so rather than have two small patches I put in one bigger one. You can also see holes drilled in the ribs in the floor. The previous onwer had stored the car outside and to prevent water sitting in the ribs he drilled drain holes. Luckily he periodically smothered the whole vehicle in lanoline which had crept into everywhere and helped preserve it. All these holes need welding up as well as some extra holes in the floor where the cars had attaching pins to retain carpet and different seat mounting holes.

[jack neville]

Next to attach the passenger seat re-inforcing panel and seat brackets I drilled some holes in the floor so I could plug weld from the top to the panel and brackets. To get the panel and brackets to sit tight I lowered the body onto a chisel and block of wood and moved it after each weld. To align the seat brackets I bolted up the top side of the seat mount and then removed it once I had then brackets in the correct position with the chisel.

[jack neville]

Next was the two panels that re-inforce the floor. I had previously removed these from the rusty Tilly as they are not part of a car chassis. Once again holes were drilled to plug weld. Then grind up the welds and touch up with primer. I need to get a worn down grinding disc to finish grinding up the welds in the ribs. Small enough to fit the radius at the end of the rib.

[Lang]

Jack

You have the patience of a saint!

Huge effort you are putting in and it will be a top vehicle when it finally hits the road.

Lang

[jack neville]

Thanks Lang.

Yes this body is coming along nicely and it is good to know it will have all sound sheetmetal in the end. It will get a good coating of rust prevention inside the vulnerable areas now that it is opened up so much. Having the later car chassis to provide the necessary parts has made the difference. The chassis of the second Tilly might be a different matter, although there is still some good metal on the remains of the rusty body that can be transferred. Another good sacrificial car might even be in order again. We have been keeping an eye out for one.

[jack neville]

Despite the rear body side panels appearing straight(ish) in most photos, none of them are good enough to use. Either too dented, bent or rusted or containing too many additional holes we considered they would detract from the final appearance if the rest of the bodies come up as good as we expect.

So new panels were decided on. The front and top folds were done at our local steel supplier and the rest of the forming will be done by hand.

Chris gave them a coat of primer to protect them pending further work.

[jack neville]

I am at the stage where I want to install the B pillars and attach the rear chassis rails and floor. I clamped the B pillars onto the chassis and hung the drivers door on its hinges to make sure it lined up properly. It did almost but not quite. The B pillar hinges have no adjustment but there is about 6mm adjustment on the door hinge. The best way i think will be to position the door and adjust it to the opening as best I can lining up the gaps and catches before I weld the B pillar. To make it a bit easier I decided to strip the doors now and lighten the load. This drivers door is in very sound condition including very good interior timber trim. Under the dilapidated bailey channel is a very good sample of original paint color, although Chris is going with a mid war brown for these restos.