An Introduction: Chris Collins and Morris Tilly Project

[Mike K]

OK and thanks for the pics .


There seems to be little information about on cold spring resetting.

I found this:

http://redcliffesprings.com.au/springs-suspension

The other method in use is to bend with a cheap hydraulic pipe bender . You bend each leaf individually, similar to hammering . Mark out with chalk on the floor, the camber you started with and use this as a guide .

I reset a series 1 land rover rear spring with a cheap pipe bender . On the UK LR forum a guy objected , writing that it would not be a effective fix .

I'm not sure if Jacob spring works in Oakleigh, Melb. is still there

I read somewhere that spring steel has a 'memory' . The hammering process disrupts the molecules and they go back to their original position.

[Lynn Eades]

About 45 years ago, I bought a low light Morris Minor and re set the back springs with the back of the axe, at the chopping block, with a section of RSJ as an anvil (Dad gave instructions and left me to it) I overdid the job and ended up carrying a couple of bags of cement around in the boot, to stop the shackles turning inside out. They did settle a bit, but she was certainly nose down when I sold her a year or two later.

[Mike K]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FS0XgPTyU3A

this guy is hammering

[jack neville]

I cut a bit further along this rusty section of sub frame as it had another pin holed area a few centimetres further down so rather than have two small patches I put in one bigger one. You can also see holes drilled in the ribs in the floor. The previous onwer had stored the car outside and to prevent water sitting in the ribs he drilled drain holes. Luckily he periodically smothered the whole vehicle in lanoline which had crept into everywhere and helped preserve it. All these holes need welding up as well as some extra holes in the floor where the cars had attaching pins to retain carpet and different seat mounting holes.

[jack neville]

Next to attach the passenger seat re-inforcing panel and seat brackets I drilled some holes in the floor so I could plug weld from the top to the panel and brackets. To get the panel and brackets to sit tight I lowered the body onto a chisel and block of wood and moved it after each weld. To align the seat brackets I bolted up the top side of the seat mount and then removed it once I had then brackets in the correct position with the chisel.

[jack neville]

Next was the two panels that re-inforce the floor. I had previously removed these from the rusty Tilly as they are not part of a car chassis. Once again holes were drilled to plug weld. Then grind up the welds and touch up with primer. I need to get a worn down grinding disc to finish grinding up the welds in the ribs. Small enough to fit the radius at the end of the rib.

[Lang]

Jack

You have the patience of a saint!

Huge effort you are putting in and it will be a top vehicle when it finally hits the road.

Lang