Torque setting for wheels

[Phil Waterman]

Originally Posted by Drew Sydorko

Thanks Phil. I just got back from the shed and thought a conservative 120 lbs on the wheel nuts would be good for now. Snap! Broke the stud with the nut. Is it difficult to replace? I'm so ticked at myself.

Drew

Hi Drew

Which side was the stud that broke? Wonder if it had been over stressed in the past by someone confused over left right thread. If somebody had gone at the nut with an impact wrench trying to remove it turning the wrong direction pretty easy to have loaded it up past 300ft.lbs.

The studs on my HUP are all welded on the inside of the drum.

Please keep us posted on your efforts to replace the stud and nut.

Cheers Phil

[Jacques Reed]

Hi Drew,

Just realized I gave a few hints on getting a broken stud out but nothing about replacing it in the hub and drum.

I found the rear wheel studs practically push into the hub by hand if everything is well cleaned up. Maybe a few light taps with a hammer but nothing more is required. I can't say how the front ones go as I never replaced one of them. I put Never Seize on the stud in case it ever has to come out again (but not in my lifetime though!) Not required really but as I had it on hand, I used it.

After the stud is firmly home I backed it up with a solid block of wood then drove the olive home using a piece of pipe that just fit over the threads. I wanted to make sure nothing got damaged so I wrapped the threads with electrical tape and put a copper washer on top of the olive to prevent nicks and flat spots as it was driven home. Maybe a bit of overkill, I will admit, but there was no damage when I was done to any machined surfaces.

Hope this is of some help and I am sure there are many other ways to do it but this worked for me.

Cheers,