2016 at the Hammond Barn

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Bob

Good to hear the harness is going well. Besides yoga is good for use. I would not be surprised to hear that gal's got this job on assembly line.

Now having put new harnesses in both Pattern 12 & 13 after the trucks were assembled I can conclusively say that's not how it was done on the assembly line. I'm sure the started when it was a rolling chassis.

First time I replaced the harness on my HUP years ago, it has fully assembled took the old one out copy it and then installed the copy. When the HUP was over hauled twenty years later put the harness in starting with the chassis then once the bare body was in place much easier.

Anybody working on a Pattern 13 do the harness without the nose on, lot easier to wire.

Also as I mentioned on my Web site if you are making a new harness make it several inches (6") longer than the original, particularly at the dash end.

Cheers Phil

[Bob Carriere]

Phil what really helped was using the same color code as the original wiring.... made using the CMP MB-C2 wiring diagram much easier to use.

Putting in the wiring harness before the body is on the frame is definitely the way to go.... in a plant setting!!!

Fishing the headlight wiring after the fenders are installed is not easy...not impossible ...but not easy.

Alex..... regarding photos..... did not take any due to the tight physical location...... in some instances... I had to remove my jacket, roll up my shirt sleeve and remove my wrist watch to reach inside the engine bay.

I will try to take some photos and post them for you...... but if you have any specific questions let me know and will try to take additional photos or give you a verbal description.

Since Phil had faithfully reproduced the CMP harness it had the connectors mid way which allowed me to split the harness midway near the T-case cross member. It allowed me to install the rear section and the lights and apply power to test them out. I did the same with the front section...... I was fortunate enough to have 3 cab 12 to look at to see how the harness was installed as mine had been totally stripped out ( originally by the mice).

So having done the rear section I worked on the front section of the ligths and tested the headligths. Actually as you connect the most obvious parts you have less and less to be intimidated by.

My issue now is redoing an instrument cluster to that I can finish the dash wiring. I have to salvage a fuel guage then can move ahead.

I temporarily designed some front flasher lights to fit on the bumper for the signal lights... and they test good.... will have pics of that for you.

One of my headache right now is that my cab 11 never had side lights mounted on the front fenders and I am not sure I want to drill holes to install them. I am considering going back to the original headlights with the separate reflector/lens system which would include the built in parking lights inside the headlight bucket.

So far, starting from both ends and meeting in the middle, seems to work for me.

My plans are to fully hard wire the voltage regulator.... then modify to accomodate the alternator and leave the voltage regular sitting there as a dummy. I am not an expert at this and must admit that you need to really think and concentrate on doing it well..... it is not a slam dunk deal but do-able........ with patience and persistance.

Cheers

[Bob Carriere]

Totally rewired my C15a with a repro wiring harness made by Phil Waterman.

It's a lot of work.....did a final check with Grant today....found one wire out of place on the HAM-metre.

Reconnected the battery..... waited....no fizzz....no phiittzzz...no smoke.... so tried all the lights.... worked fine.... turned the new ignition key ...engine fired up micely and even the HAM-metre was working properly..... and this is a 12 volt conversion with a new alternator.

Brake lights did not work but we tracked it down to a defective brake switch....

Very pleased with the result and the harness from Phil was a delight to work with.

One more step closer to getting a safety for the road.

Cheers

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Bob

Good progress, I had this nagging fear in the back of my mind that you were going to say I had missed some important wire, or miss labeled something.

So now you have wiring lights whats left before the critical test?

Cheers Phil

[Bob Carriere]

Finish the door with paint and new inner skins..... paint the seat frame and install and waiting for the 30Ohms senders for the fuel tank......

...... than road trip!!!!!!

It sure made my task a lot easier to have a "perfect" wiring loom to work with. I followed your practice and did soldered joint on all connections then skrink/heat wrapped. Connectors in the mid section were coated with di-lectric grease during assembly.......all carefully clipped to the frame....especially near the master cylinder......

Will be installing a manual turn signal system which uses a large switch similar to the fuel gauge switch.

I will be running "roadster" style like you without a top and plan to install the original rusted out cargo box as fenders are required....sort of a "work in progress"

Top needs a lot of small bumps to be removed and replace about 6 inch strip near the middle joint.

The cargo box will be reverse enginered later on...... I have 3 rusted hulk to work from.

One question on the harness you supplied Rob for his HUP....did you use the same wiring diagram or did you make a "one off" for his HUP????

A thousand thanks

Bob C

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Bob

Pretty sure I used the Pattern 13 wiring diagram http://www.canadianmilitarypattern.c...Harness(1).jpg

Later version so it may have wires not used on the prototype.

Hope you can give us a video of the first official road trip. Driving these things as roadsters is way to enjoyable, doubt my Pat 12 will ever get its roof.

Cheers Phil

PS - At some point know we have posted the Pattern 11, 12 & 13 wiring diagrams for both Ford and Chevy, if anyone knows the threads how about posting or starting a thread called WIRING DIAGRAMS under restoration and we can all post diagrams for what ever vehicle as reference to others.

[Bob Carriere]

Good idea to have a special thread just on the wiring diagram and issues.

I used the MB-C2 that grant got copied / enlarged to 17 inches..... makes it easier to read and male notes in the margins.

I will make a point of posting that diagram them include the same diagram with the modifications I made to accomodate the flashers, the manual flasher and the alternator and voltage reducer on the fuel tank gauge.

First road trip will definetily be a U tube video..... and having too much fun with the roadster style maybe a problem. Have you ever considered desiging a simple jeep type canvass roof???

Reason I was asking about the HUP wiring diagram is I may try to give Rob a hand at finishing is wiring.

Man it's only 4 C this morning....will need to fire up Lucifer in the barn.

Plan to jack up the truck on 4 jack stand and bleed the brakes ( brake fluid is 4 years old) and do a fine touch lining adjustment.....easier with all wheels free turning.

Today will change the brake hydraulic switch and install the horn ring on the steering wheel and rebuild the wipers.
Vacuum wipers-s-s-s have be stripped down to selct the two best and new gasket made using the scanner from the computer.... they are all piped in place but need to be finished and tested.

Weather permitting will be sandblasting the seat pans and the tool box next week and paint the doors.....

Cheers

PS we used the same wiring diagram from the MB-C2..... my cab 11 has no side lights (yet) and the Brigth light on the diagram is shown as connected when the lwo beams are on....... I will do a cut and paper paste over the original diagram showing what changes I made.

[Alex van de Wetering]

Hi Bob,

Sorry for not getting back to you earlier; My question regarding pictures was just out of curiousity to see the current status of your truck. The only real specific question I have regarding the wiring at the moment is what type of clips you have used to keep the wiring loom in place(?). From what I have been able to learn from my C8 is that the wiring in the engine bay does use some pre-welded clips on the inner panels of the nose..., as well as around the radiator....the wiring for the headlights are also snugly fit in place....but the loom going through the right chassis rails to the rear lights....seem to just "lay" in position without any clips originally? At least I haven't been able to find any remains of bolted or clamped clips on the frame rails.
I have bought some clips that can be clamped to the chassis rails (not used yet as I sill have to start wiring), but I wonder what others have come up with(?)

starting a thread called WIRING DIAGRAMS

Excellent idea Phil. Wiring seems to be a subject that comes up on the forum quite regularly, so it wouldn't hurt to put some of this info in a separate thread.

Alex

[Bob Carriere]

Hi Alex

I found a number of small 1/4 inch holes along the bottom of my frame and have used them with rubber covered P shaped clips.... in other area I found at a vintage car show old style spring steel clips that worked beautiful and also made use of long through the frame boltd holding for some of the tank and other brackets and added P shaped clips and and extra nut.

The welded engine side and rad tank clips do come in handy.

I still have to run the two wires to the fule tank and will make use osmaller spring steel frame clips..... I believe they are readily available in trailer supply shops for people rewiring their car float trailers...... I even got myself the old fashion cotton black tar impregated electrical tape from EBay.

Everything works, lights, ignition and a very growling loud 6 volt horn running on 12 volts.

I installed a voltage reducer RUNTZ on the fuel gauge and it works...... none needed for the amp metere and works well with the new alternator.

Cheers