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#1
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So if I were to use a torch, would that work for simply hearing it up until it melted out? I've never brazed before so I'm not sure how it all works.
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Jordan Baker RHLI Museum, Otter LRC C15A-Wire3, 1944 Willys MB, 1942 10cwt Canadian trailer |
#2
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Likely not. Brazing it kind of like properly tinned solder....it leeches into the metal. You will get rid of about 80% or more of it by reasonable heating, but you won't get it all. When you try to weld over it with steel, either by gas or by mig, it will spit like water in boiling cooking oil.
Did I mention I hate brazing? |
#3
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Jordan don't be blinded completely by Rob.
I have come across a number of bad and failed brazing repairs over the years, so I know exactly where he is coming from. Brazing was a regular method of repair a few years back, used in many different ways on many and varied materials. I'm not skilled in this area but here are a few uses that might be of interest. "Silfos" for welding copper. Various types of "Easy flow" for sweating components together with next to no extra material showing used to join copper to brass, steel to brass etc. used in refridgeration(high silver to prevent vibration cracking) lower silver content (cheaper) in plumbing use. Wear brazing. We used to use it all the time for repairing cracked and chaffed hydraulic pipes.(not what it was made for) The ordinary type of brazing Rob refers to covers the whole spectrum of materials. Results can be very good, but where for instance a crack in cast iron is brazed, the results might not be so good. The success of this type of repair is often hit or miss and I tend to run with Rob in this area. It usually requires a skilled welder along with some good knowledge of just what the cast is. (many types and problems) I think brazing has faded from use because; We are a more throw away society. Because alternative welding methods have evolved. The cost of labour has tended to do away with "we'll try and fix it first"
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Bluebell Carrier Armoured O.P. No1 Mk3 W. T84991 Carrier Bren No2.Mk.I. NewZealand Railways. NZR.6. Dodge WC55. 37mm Gun Motor Carriage M6 Jeep Mb #135668 So many questions.... |
#4
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If you get the brass molten then use a hand wire brush to wipe it away you'll get rid of most of it.
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1940 Cab 11 C8 Wireless with 1A2 box & 11 set 1940 Cab 11 C8 cab and chassis 1940 Cab 11 C15 with 2A1 & Motley mount & Lewis gun 1940 Cab 11 F15A w/ Chev rear ends 1941 Cab 12 F15A 1942-44 Cab 13 F15A x 5 1942 cab 13 F15A with 2B1 box 1943 cab 13 F15A with 2H1 box 1943 Cab 13 C8A HUP 1944 Cab 13 C15A with 2C1 box 1943 Cletrac M2 High Speed Tractor MkII Bren gun carrier chassis x 2 |
#5
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Lynn
I will bow to your points about it having it's uses. But where it does not belong is on huge door and fender patches, or trying to join two halves of a cast hand-crank together. These are the kinds of jack-ass repairs I have had to deal with over the years. I never could figure out how these baboons managed to get the torches to light, besides not burn down the shop. |
#6
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Hi Jordan, I have done this in the past and it works quite well but you do need to wear some protective gear. Use an oxy on lowish heat and use your compressor with a point jet and blow it away. It won't get rid of every bit but most of it. You can direct which way you want it to go.
Colin. |
#7
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Rob, I am on your side!
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__________________
Bluebell Carrier Armoured O.P. No1 Mk3 W. T84991 Carrier Bren No2.Mk.I. NewZealand Railways. NZR.6. Dodge WC55. 37mm Gun Motor Carriage M6 Jeep Mb #135668 So many questions.... |
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