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  #1  
Old 08-04-16, 20:54
Phil Waterman Phil Waterman is offline
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Default Like the mounted drill

Hi Jacques

Good little trick with the bench top drill press. These little drill presses are amazinglying easy to bolt down for tough drilling problems, giving much better results than hand drills. I've never successfully center drilled a broken off studs or bolt with hand driĺl. Will have too try your ground down saw blade trick.

When I was restoring my Pat 12 needed line drill a most of rivits, looked at buying a magnet based drill several hundred dollars instead went with one of these little drill presses under $40. Did some simple modification to make it even more versatile. Will dig out some photos and share them.

Cheers Phil
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  #2  
Old 09-04-16, 02:52
Jacques Reed Jacques Reed is offline
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Hi Phil,

Look forward to seeing your setup too.

Slight correction to my previous post:
I think I probably drilled the broken stud with a 5/16" drill not a 3/16" drill as the Ford blocks are tapped 7/16-14 UNC. that would allow enough "meat" to prevent hitting the crest of the internal threads during drilling even if slightly off centre. It also kept the junior hacksaw blade more rigid from having to be ground too narrow for the hole.
Probably best to start with a smaller drill and see how it is positioned before going to either a 1/4" or 5/16" drill. Main thing is not to drill so much that there is only the remains of the stud left it the internal threads. Then you will have problems cleaning them out.
I did that once on another part with a broken stud and it was a disaster.

Cheers,
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  #3  
Old 09-04-16, 03:02
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Mike K Mike K is offline
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Default flame

I believe that a oxy cutting flame will not effect cast iron. Would it be possible to blow out the broken stud with a oxy/acc torch ?

Another method https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bSOg7aQ44eg
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  #4  
Old 09-04-16, 05:26
Lynn Eades Lynn Eades is offline
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Jacques, I put a head on(because the Ford studs are a close fit in the holes in the V8 head), made a sleeve for the stud hole, and bored a a pilot hole through the sleeve on the lathe. This was my method to get a hole through the centre of my broken studs. It worked well.
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  #5  
Old 09-04-16, 06:32
T Creighton T Creighton is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jacques Reed
; going to either a 1/4" or 5/16" drill. Main thing is not to drill so much that there is only the remains of the stud left it the internal threads. Then you will have problems cleaning them out.
I did that once on another part with a broken stud and it was a disaster.
Cheers,
Oh dear! I have done that with 4 holes on the second choice block so I guess I have a disaster on my hands if I have to use that one.
The welding a nut on process is working well although each nut needs to be re heated again at least twice in most cases.
I am using a TIG torch that can hold the metal to almost melting so get good heat penetration.
On the so called good block at present it is 1 broken, 1 halfway out, 10 out clean and 3 to go.
Thanks everyone for the good ideas.
Cheers Terry
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  #6  
Old 09-04-16, 07:23
Jacques Reed Jacques Reed is offline
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Default clearing the stud holes

Hi Terry,

All may not be lost on the "B" block. The part I stuffed up was the exhaust manifold stud hole but that is subjected to a lot more heat than the head so the threads were practically welded into it over the years. Had to Heli coil it finally.

You may be able to get a few of the thread remains out of the block with a dental pick if they are not as badly siezed as my manifold stud threads were. You then may be able to get a tap started squarely to finish off the clearing of what little threads still remain in the tapped block.

Hope all goes well.

Cheers,
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  #7  
Old 02-08-17, 07:08
T Creighton T Creighton is offline
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Default Engines studs etc.

In case anyone is wondering as to the outcome of all of this I got my engine back a few days ago (over a year later) as a completely rebuilt short block assy.
New pistons, rings, liners, valves , guides etc and with the crankshaft/flywheel/clutch assy balanced. The pistons and rods were statically balanced.
In spite of me spending hours cleaning out and re-tapping the head stud holes the re- conditioner drilled out and helicoild the whole lot.
Nothing like doing the job properly and surprisingly not too expensive.(for the helicoils that is, I won't mention the cost of the rest of it.)
Warm regards to all.
Terry
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  #8  
Old 02-08-17, 15:27
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Tony Smith Tony Smith is offline
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Awesome feeling?
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  #9  
Old 02-08-17, 22:11
T Creighton T Creighton is offline
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Cheers for that Tony_big smiles all round.
Terry
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