M38a1 CDN2 - Winter Project

[Peter Phillips]

Looking good Wayne! I've never heard of the product "Chassis Saver". I know of another product that works great for chassis which is POR15. I don't know how successful you would be getting paint to stick to it would be though as it's like a two part epoxy? What colour grey did you use on the motor, i like it!

[Phil Waterman]

Hi

Does Chassis Saver require a special over coat to paint over top of it or to under coat?

One of the issues with Por15 is that you have to use their special TieCoat if you want to paint over it to change color.

The comment about Por15 not sticking fresh new steel is very true, even if you have etched the steel, it may not stick. I've had problems where old steel with patch of paint the Por15 peeled off the clean smooth ares. For Por15 to stick you really need to ruff up the entire surface.

Look forward to more info

Cheers Phil

[Wayne Hingley]

I specifically avoided using POR15 because of all the sensitivities around its handling, preparation and application. I understand it is a great product when used correctly, but I didn't really want the risk of screwing it up.

When I purchased the Chassis Saver, the guy at the shop told me that I could apply my enamel paint directly over CS, once the CS has cured (I found out the curing time is 7 days). My due diligence may have been a bit light however, as I didn't really look in to the procedures for painting over the CS, beyond the conversation with the guy in the shop. I just sent a technical request related to this directly to CS, and I will post their response when I hear back from them. Fingers crossed...

[Wayne Hingley]

Through my local auto body supply store (who called the Chassis Saver rep while I was there), we found out that CS does not make a primer or coating to allow paint to adhere as an over-coat.

Paint will not bond to CS, and will peal off very easily. So... this changes my plans. While I really like the result achieved with CS, I do not want a black frame. Im considering a few different options, all of which include some sandblasting, epoxy primer & epoxy paint. More to follow soon.

[Peter Phillips]

That's a bummer, Wayne, it looks good! I bet that CS will be a pain to sandblast off. Wonder what other alternatives are out there if CS and POR15 have their own inherent issues? What type of grey paint did you use on the engine?

[Wayne Hingley]

Hi Peter, Yes its definitely a little bit of a setback. My original intention was to use a good quality epoxy primer and paint. However, I was talked in to using the CS, as the guy told me I could paint over it (my fault for not doing my homework first). Anyway, Im back to my original plan. I don't need a "specialized" frame paint for this vehicle, as it is not a daily driver and will not be subject to winter road salt etc. Im thinking of redoing the "outside" portions of the frame only, and leaving the CS on the inner (hard to get at) sections that you cannot see.

My original engine paint was in very good shape, and looked quite good once I cleaned it up (several hours of cleaning). I am still looking for a high-temp paint in the right shade of grey. Everything I have found in "high-temp" is some type of aluminum or silver color. I sprayed a light coat of Krylon "light machinery grey" over the entire block, but Im sure it will not last too long in the hot areas. The Krylon is basically an exact match to the original color. I will keep looking for the same shade in a high-temp paint.

[rob love]

Of course, the original colour was not grey. That was just the colour applied when the engines were rebuilt. Originally the engine would have been olive green with a black valve cover and the hurricane decal at the front of the valve cover.

The grey colour could vary depending on who did the rebuilds. The contract changed a couple of times, and as well 202 workshop was doing them for a spell, also in grey.

[Grant Bowker]

At different times both Ford and Chevrolet used grey paint on engine blocks although I'm not sure if the shade you need matches those colours. I'm not sure you need the "high temperature" paint often quoted as being for exhaust pipes and headers and ratedup to 1300 degrees. I would have thought something in the order of 300-500 degrees should be a high enough rating as I don't imagine the outside of the block should get any hotter than the oil and water inside the block. Several suppliers, Eastwood, Filling Station, Chevs of the 40s, Duplicolor, Hirsch, sell engine enamel in different versions of grey.