M38a1 CDN2 - Winter Project

[Wayne Hingley]

Thanks for the tip Rob. I had been looking things over and other than the welding you refer to, everything looks good. I went back and specifically took a look at the areas you mention, and I don't see any evidence of cracks or stress. Thanks for mentioning that, I definitely want to make sure all is good while Im at this phase.

[Wayne Hingley]

... and the bellcrank area.

[maple_leaf_eh]

Originally Posted by Wayne Hingley

... and the bellcrank area.

The sparker's version of, 'if you don't know knots, tie lots'?

[rob love]

Yep, they look OK from here. The right side was usually the one that cracked where they had two holes directly above the stress point. It was more common that you would think. The extra welding at the bellcrank was very common, including attempts to weld the cast bracket to the steel plate.

[Wayne Hingley]

I just finished spraying the frame (3 coats). I chose to use a product called Chassis Saver. Ill splash a bit of OD on the frame after this stuff cures. I need to investigate the recommended time to cure before painting over the Chassis Saver.

[Peter Phillips]

Looking good Wayne! I've never heard of the product "Chassis Saver". I know of another product that works great for chassis which is POR15. I don't know how successful you would be getting paint to stick to it would be though as it's like a two part epoxy? What colour grey did you use on the motor, i like it!

[Phil Waterman]

Hi

Does Chassis Saver require a special over coat to paint over top of it or to under coat?

One of the issues with Por15 is that you have to use their special TieCoat if you want to paint over it to change color.

The comment about Por15 not sticking fresh new steel is very true, even if you have etched the steel, it may not stick. I've had problems where old steel with patch of paint the Por15 peeled off the clean smooth ares. For Por15 to stick you really need to ruff up the entire surface.

Look forward to more info

Cheers Phil