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#1
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Great write-up Bob!
Here in Europe quite a few people have bought this pneumatically operated ex-German Army unit which reportedly works wonders on stubborn tyres as well. tyre-shifter (1).jpg
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Regards, Hanno -------------------------- |
#2
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Very nice set up with the flexibility to work on various size/type of rims.
No doubt faster than a manual set up. Cheers
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Bob Carriere....B.T.B C15a Cab 11 Hammond, Ontario Canada |
#3
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Hi All
With these different designs it would be interesting to measure or calculate the forces being applied to push the bead off. Cheers Phil
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Phil Waterman `41 C60L Pattern 12 `42 C60S Radio Pattern 13 `45 HUP http://canadianmilitarypattern.com/ New e-mail Philip@canadianmilitarypattern.com |
#4
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We have finally found a way to exceed the design parameter of the tool......
....so before putting money down stay tuned for details.... we have tried the tool on the worst rusted-frozen rim we had and bent the claw and pin that holds the tool in place but just brute torque with a 16 in hand ratchet..... I have taken pictures which I will share with the US distributor to see what they recommend.... ....and are in the process of designing a stronger claw made of wood for a machinist to reproduce in T1 steel.... thicker cross section to avoid bending. Stay tuned we have not given up yet!! Bob C
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Bob Carriere....B.T.B C15a Cab 11 Hammond, Ontario Canada |
#5
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No doubt it has been covered before on MLU, but if not, and you intend to scrap the tyres anyway, I have found it easier to cut the tyre off. Usually the tubes and rust bands aren't worth using again as the bands gets imbedded with heavy scale along with the tube where it comes through the wheel so destroying them in the process is no great loss.
I can get a tyre off in 15 minutes using just an electric drill, sabre saw, hacksaw blade holder, and a cold chisel and hammer. Drill 2 holes with a 3/8" diameter drill near the bead on opposites sides of the tyre. cut out a wedge with the sabre saw to give you room to work, cut through the bead as much as you can up to the wires using the hacksaw blade holder, then cut through the wires in the bead with the hammer and chisel. Even before the last wires are cut the wheel often comes free. Of course if you are fitting/removing good tyres the need for good hydraulic or powered tools is essential. Cheers,
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F15-A 1942 Battery Staff Jacques Reed |
#6
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I remove tires from CMP wheels using a simple tire hammer. The secret is not to use the tire hammer as a hammer. I use it in combination with a sledge hammer to ensure accuracy. I simply work my way around the rim. Once the rim starts to separate from the tire it usually comes off pretty quickly. The first pass is the slowest. The worst tire I had was a 20" run flat which had been on since 1942. It took a little more hammering but eventually came off. A modestly stubborn tire takes between 30 minutes to an hour to remove.
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Ian |
#7
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Just a word of caution:
I still remember my high school metal shop teacher cautioning us not to ever strike two hammers faces together. Apparently because the faces are case hardened, chips from the hard surface can break off and fly out if struck together with disastrous results to eyes. Perhaps the tyre hammer face isn't case hardened but I would still suggest wearing goggles when striking it with a sledge just in case. Cheers,
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F15-A 1942 Battery Staff Jacques Reed |
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