Carrier Assembly; Helpful hints, tricks and traps

[rob love]

Originally Posted by Lynn Eades

ASSEMBLY ORDER.
If you have completely gutted your hull, the first things to go back in are the gear change parts along the floor and the bottom (between the bed rails) radiator shroud. (it bolts to the floor)
It would be wise to lube/anti-seize where you can.
I Put my cross tube in first, but probably the gear change should be first.
The British service book says to leave the roller brackets loose on the inside of the hull and put the shaft in. This makes access to the nuts more difficult. Remember there are 4 holes that hold the leather boot frame on the out side.
The book says to grease the roller assemblies and pack the leather boots with grease (having tie wired the boots into place with a single piece of wire, each side)
Once the cross tube is in, I then put my cam plate (already fitted up on its mounting plate) in. There is little clearance between the big nut and the cross tube. This may need to be relieved.
I assembled the cam plate rollers in last. We are then required to adjust the clearance (rollers to cam plate, )to 0.001".
I then installed the two steering rods from the cam plate forward. It is awkward to get the lock nuts on the bottom.

I just finished these items 2 minutes ago, and my order was slightly different.
1: cam assy first (never mind, make it last). These are a bugger....I like to get it done first
2: Shift assy and linkage and pillow block. Done before the roller and steering cross shaft, it allows you to get the bolts in in case you need to bring it up a bit.
3: Hull rollers and brackets. I had mine completely assembled in their bracket. Cross shaft will go through just fine EXCEPT: cross shaft must go in from right to left so you can work it around the steering plate center nut. If you try to come in from the left side of the carrier, it will jam up against the nut with nowhere to go.
4: Steering rollers and blocks: Note that the blocks are paired and are bore aligned. Mixing the pairs, or even reversing the top from the bottom, will make the alignment bad, and may not allow the blocks to clamp properly or the adjusters to turn in their holes. Same goes for the block holding the transmission shift linkage bearing. It will be bore aligned and only go together one way properly. With these kinds of blocks, one does well to stamp or pin-punch them prior to removal. I recall snapping a ferret mounting block because I mixed caps.
Edited to add: This will re-enforce Lynn's order: I ended up having to remove my cross shaft to get the roller blocks in place. There is insufficient room to install them from the bottom with the cam plate in place. Oh well, two steps forward and one step back.

5: And this is a big one: try and restore your carrier before you turn 50 and the arthritis sets in.

[super dave]

Originally Posted by rob love

I just finished these items 2 minutes ago, and my order was slightly different.
1: cam assy first. These are a bugger....I like to get it done first
2: Shifter assy and linkage and pillow block. Done before the roller and steering shaft, it allows you to get the bolts in in case you need to bring it up a bit.
3: Hull rollers and brackets. I had mine completely assembled in their bracket. Cross shaft will go through just fine EXCEPT: cross shaft must go in from right to left so you can work it around the steering plate center nut. If you try to come in from the left side of the carrier, it will jam up against the nut with knowhere to go.
4: Steering rollers and blocks: Note that the blocks are paired and are bore aligned. Mixing the pairs, or even reversing the top from the bottom, will make the alignment bad, and may not allow the blocks to clamp properly or the adjusters to turn in their holes. Same goes for the block holding the transmission shifter linkage bearing. It will be bore aligned and only go together one way properly. With these kinds of blocks, one does well to stamp or pinpunch them prior to removal. I recall snapping a ferret mounting block because I mixed caps.
5: And this is a big one: try and restore your carrier before you turn 50 and the arthritis sets in.

I like #5

[Paul Dutton]

Originally Posted by rob love

I just finished these items 2 minutes ago, and my order was slightly different.
1: cam assy first. These are a bugger....I like to get it done first
2: Shifter assy and linkage and pillow block. Done before the roller and steering shaft, it allows you to get the bolts in in case you need to bring it up a bit.
3: Hull rollers and brackets. I had mine completely assembled in their bracket. Cross shaft will go through just fine EXCEPT: cross shaft must go in from right to left so you can work it around the steering plate center nut. If you try to come in from the left side of the carrier, it will jam up against the nut with knowhere to go.
4: Steering rollers and blocks: Note that the blocks are paired and are bore aligned. Mixing the pairs, or even reversing the top from the bottom, will make the alignment bad, and may not allow the blocks to clamp properly or the adjusters to turn in their holes. Same goes for the block holding the transmission shifter linkage bearing. It will be bore aligned and only go together one way properly. With these kinds of blocks, one does well to stamp or pinpunch them prior to removal. I recall snapping a ferret mounting block because I mixed caps.
5: And this is a big one: try and restore your carrier before you turn 50 and the arthritis sets in.

Ha ha, #5!
Or wait til you ARE 50 then buy your carrier like me!! By then you will ALREADY be on pain killers and anti inflammatory drugs!😀

[Lynn Eades]

So many of us young fellas in the same boat

I think I just hijacked my own thread?)

[Michael R.]

Originally Posted by Lynn Eades

So many of us young fellas in the same boat

I think I just hijacked my own thread?)

He shoots!

[RichardT10829]

He scores !!

There should be a number 6

Restore your project as best you can without exposing yourself to nasty chemicals. Asbestos. RA.226 etc etc

[Lynn Eades]

Moving right along.... Fitting the radiator etc.
Having sorted (FIRST) all the linkages for the clutch throttle etc, that hide under the oil cooler and radiator it is time to fit the oil cooler.
Before this you followed the workshop manual advice to remove the ends from the cooler pipes and anneal them (copper work hardens and in this state can crack!) Aside from the fact that I didn't do this, it might help to burn free some of the 60 year old crud that is stuck in the pipes, which leads to the need to be sure everything is very clean on the inside (just how much have you spent on that engine???)
Anyhow, fit the oil cooler in its brackets and then fit the left hand pipe. The fitting on the cooler sits lower for a reason- so that you can get spanners turning in there. Now you an do the other one.
To fit the radiator it would be easier with the cam plate cover and battery tray out of the way (how else do you get to hold the rad. mounting bolts?
I am just doing this now. (I have the wiring that crosses across under the cooler done)
It looks like the radiator drops in from the drivers side and slides sideways on top of the rubber mounts, to the left.(the left side plate has to go under the lower cover rail) Now you move the bottom forward so that you may fight the bottom hoses into place (not forgetting the hose clips) and then finally you move the radiator toward the rear until the mounting bolt holes line up.

As my only experience here is based on "present" and "future" maybe some of you "old hands" can "add to" or "refute" some of the above.

On another tack, If you have a generator with a regulator (british) then to test them you will need both to go to the auto electricians together.

[Lynn Eades]

Hi Guys. I thought I'd add the steering box seal sizes, for the Canadian Carrier, Ross steering box.
The big one (sector shaft) at the bottom is 1 7/16" x 1.0" x 5/16".
That translates to 1.437" x 1.0" x0.312"
The worm seal (small one) is also an imperial measurement seal
It is 1 5/16" x 7/8" x 5/16" or the other way it is 1.312" x 0.875" x 0.312"
For me, I could only buy them 1/4" thick.
I bet you young guys love this stuff.

BTW. I am looking for the top plate (with the adjusting screw) from one of these boxes, if anyone has a spare. Thankyou in advance.