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#1
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Reading over the thread I see about everything that I have tried.
What I have found works great is this. I have a vinyl stencil plotter for making decals. Not hard to find. Any sign maker has one. I don't want a decal on the paint I want it painted on...so What I do is I use a non permanent decal stock and do the decal on it. I then take out the letters (opposite of what you would normally do). This will leave you a stencil that you position and stick onto your vehicle. As I leave a couple of inches of material I mask (butcher paper) with green painters tape around it on the decal. I have hand painted and I have spray painted. Both have looked good. Let it dry a little bit before you pull the stencil off. Nice shape lines.
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MVPA # 34755 1942 MKI Univeral Carrier 1943 MKII Universal Carrier (Tub) 1954 M38A1 Jeep 1954 M37 3/4 CDN FFW 1954 M37 3/4 CDN 1954 M152 CDN 1954 M135 CDN 1969 M101 3/4 trailer (2x) 1989 M101A2 3/4 trailer (3x) 1986 M105A2 1.5 trailer 1995 M116A3 1.3 trailer (7x) 1969 M416 1/4 ton trailer 1993 M100 CDN 1984 M915A1 Tractor 1984 M925 5 ton Cargo 1942 CMP C60L Chev Truck 1974 M151A2 1986 Iltis Wire 1970 M561 Gama Goat 2000 M1102 Raytheon Trailer (2x) Bob Brown |
#2
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I have seen simple paper stencils work well.
The secret is using a small foam hand roller to apply the paint to stop the paint creeping under the stencil. |
#3
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here's what I accomplished today. Not done yet, looking for some RCA stick on decals for the story board. Cheers Rob
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1942 C8A- HUW " Wireless Nipper" 1943 F-60S LAAT and 1939 Bofors 1942 C8 Wireless 1943 FAT/ 17 pounder 1941 C15 GS 2B1 |
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#5
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Well, I've been applying most markings etc. usually myself, and am not bad at it, as a lot of people aske me to their vehicles, problem usually is that it's too nice! during wartime conditions there were no perfect brushes and stencils with glue on the back etc. etc. so overspray, ragged edges etc. is all possible, even from the factory it was not always perfect, just study lots of wartime pictures, never copy someone elses restored vehicles, they may have gotten it wrong somewhere too.
Favourite method is also as described above, make something up in the PC, print it out, and cut out with sharp knife, then copy onto the part, I usually use lead pencils for that, the softer the better, it can be removed afterwards with soapy water, and that is what was used during wartime too, so most original, even if you later still see traces of it..... Here a sign I just did a couple weeks ago for my Canadian field workshop display; 2015-12-12 11.59.35.jpg I have 3 different sizes of those heavy US manual stencil cutters, that are always in the way, wherever you put them, but are very handy for all sorts of texts. Cheers, Lex |
#6
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Hey All
We have a company here that will do stencils made out of magnets, this would work perfect for anything to go on a vehicle like unit markings, etc. You could likely get individual numbers made up so that you could have different numbers on the doors. I used to use stencils like this with a company I used to work for and they work really well and last a long time, all you would need is to know what font to use and they can make any size stencil you want. The other good thing is if you don't seat it perfectly you can get overspray. Gary
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C-15A C-60S Universal Carrier MK II x4 M152 CDN VW Iltis and M101 Trailer ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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