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  #1  
Old 30-09-15, 10:18
Darrin Wright Darrin Wright is offline
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A couple of pics depicting the bracket and strap.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Oct 02 360.jpg (75.0 KB, 28 views)
File Type: jpg Jan 3 039.jpg (54.9 KB, 30 views)
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1943 Ford GPW Jeep "Follow Me"
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1940 LP1 Bren Gun Carrier
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  #2  
Old 30-09-15, 23:00
Dale Jordan Dale Jordan is offline
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Thanks Darrin and Alex for the photos . I just need to see what the top bracket looks like ? Here is a photo below of where i'm at before the motor goes in , with the clutch rod how do the bends look ? does it go behind the exhaust extensions can it be put in after the engine is in ? as it might need test fitting and re bending



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Old 01-10-15, 08:01
Andrew Rowe Andrew Rowe is offline
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Hi Dale, put all your rods in including the accelerator rod. The clutch rod goes along side the starter motor by memory and definitely not around the exhaust. When fitting the engine just make sure a guy is easing the clutch and Acc. rods around the starter , and to the side ,as the engine is lowered. When the two rods are connected , make sure the bend is right so when you put your foot on the pedal it does not touch the starter motor terminal .Make sure the 2 bottom rubber hoses for your radiator can side on your water pumps easy, and push them hard back on the water pumps, length should be 110mm for ease of sliding onto rad. outlets. Top hoses should be about 85mm long. Leave gen. off so you do not stick the blades in the fan when lowering. You can leave the fan belts on though . Gap between your 2 flanges on the 8 point coupling should be 8mm approx. Make sure speedo cable is tucked out of the way. You can also leave the 2 exhaust pipes in the floor elbows, and with a guy either side when lowering, they can ease them up onto the 2 studs as the engine comes down to rest, so you are making sure they do not get jammed. Also do a trial fit with basic engine to make sure you are shimmed to height on the gearbox mount, and that the rubbers and bolts can slide easy in the steel flanges for ease of making this final connection. Do not force the 8 bolts to line up in the holes, they should just push in by hand if the 2 flanges are parallel and centred, that is why you should try with a pretty bare engine and even your rods removed for this exercise, before the final fitting and bolt up of engine .Cheers.
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Last edited by Andrew Rowe; 01-10-15 at 08:09.
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  #4  
Old 01-10-15, 08:22
Lynn Eades Lynn Eades is offline
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Moderators, can you copy Andrews very useful post into the LP2 carrier helpful hints thread please?
Great info from a guy who has put a few together. Cheers Andrew.
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  #5  
Old 01-10-15, 08:42
Dale Jordan Dale Jordan is offline
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Excellent help Andrew . Is it best for the radiator to be in first or after engine ? also when you look at my clutch rod in the photo above is it to be bent like that , or straight ? I'll take your advice and test fit and do a dry run . Dale
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  #6  
Old 01-10-15, 09:48
Andrew Rowe Andrew Rowe is offline
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Do your test fit without the radiator, so you do not damage it, and yes the clutch rod has a couple of kinks in it.
Once you have done the test fit at the diff coupling, install rad. and you should be good to go for the final fitting.
Other thing to note is the fuel tank straps on the top of the engine do not protrude too far toward the engine, as when you
come to fit the engine cover, they should clear by 5mm or so, ie. they should be flush or just short of the outside face of the little guide tabs
that are on the engine rails. You will realise the meaning to this when you fit your engine cover!
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Last edited by Andrew Rowe; 01-10-15 at 09:56.
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  #7  
Old 07-11-15, 06:43
Dale Jordan Dale Jordan is offline
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Data Plate done . The holes line up as well , looks great . Thank's Matt , Darrin and Rick .






Rebuilt motor is back after Couple of months of waiting, all's good I'm going to test run with radiator all hooked up before installing in carrier



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Last edited by Dale Jordan; 07-11-15 at 06:51.
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