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#1
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I have been working away on the reproduction tank for a while now. The engine has been sorted by an actual mechanic.
![]() Thanks Peter Duggan for the poke to remind me to post pics. Pictures are very hard to upload. Seems only the ones off my phone will go. ![]() |
#2
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Jon,
Great looking replica. This is a period in the evolution of light tanks that doesn't have many survivors. Looking forward to your updates. Peter |
#3
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Hey Jon
The project is looking great so far, I have a tub of a carrier that I should do the same thing with. As to your pictures not loading the issue could be the file size, I have found that if they are too large they simply do not load and you never get an error or anything. If you can try reducing the size and try again. Gary
__________________
C-15A C-60S Universal Carrier MK II x4 M152 CDN VW Iltis and M101 Trailer ![]() ![]() ![]() |
#4
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Jon-I went thru the same learning curve with a panzer mk1 I built on a carrier chassis. I ended up building a second panzer tank and in order to get the drive right, I flipped the axle upside down to reverse the direction. this saved having to go thru another transmission that was put in reverse. I like the new driveline a lot better. I also used hydraulic steering on the second one-a big improvement!
John |
#5
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If I could post the pics I could show you how I did the drive-line. The original plan of using the second tranny was a bust when I did the math on the gearing ratio it worked out to a very slow machine. I used an engine and trans out of a 1996 Jeep Cherokee (4L inline 6cyl) and left the transfer case attached. This machine runs on the front wheel drive portion of the T case and has plenty of power and speed. I will likely do another one in the future but need to decide on a model of tank..... This one is on a T16 chassis so the steering was no issue as it is already tiller bars. The driving in reverse on the diff only worries me in that the steering brakes are "grabbing" in the wrong direction. Any thoughts on this are welcome.
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#6
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Jon-the brakes might be grabbing due to rust, oil contamination or lack of use. Or maybe you could use some new brake linings. I wouldn't worry about it. You can check them the next time you break the track for some reason.
John |
#7
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Ron |
#8
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Robert Pearce. |
#9
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Jon, can you switch the pads to opposite ends of the axle to rectify how they "grab" to ensure they have effective braking for the new "forward"? I have a T16 axle on my carrier, so maybe I'll have a look next time I break track and see if it can be done, if you haven't already considered it.
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#10
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The brakes I am referring to are the steering brakes inside the differential housing. I see no way to change them around without redesigning the mounts on the inside. They work OK but it is noticeable that they work better when I back up.
The normal drum brakes are just fine for stopping. I made pedals for the drum brakes instead of using the 4 tillers of the T16. I then joined the pedals together to give me straight stopping rather than run the risk of one turning me at a time when I need to stop. I made them separate in case I decide to try steering with them, don't see the need most of the time but if I broke a linkage pin....... might be the only way to get back to the barn for repairs. I am always planning for worst case scenarios.... ![]() |
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