Wanted: Chev Blitz C15A North QLD

[Private_collector]

Luke,

I do agree with Richard. $2000 is a lot for that condition. Heaps of rust holes means HUGE effort repairing, or more likely, further searching for replacement parts. Dents are a relatively easy fix. A bit of gentle persuasion, and a little filler, all fixed. Rust holes are a major time waster, and a real big pain. Even worse, they will be expensive if you need to pay pros to do the job.

Can you give us some information on what areas of expertise you guys have. What restoration or repair experience do you have, or are wanting to learn? I guess what I'm wanting to know is, what things will you need to pay other people to do.
CMP as found 1.jpg Front end installed 1.jpg Front signage 1.jpg passenger door repair 1.jpg Engine with external parts test fit 2.jpg
The above photos are of various stages of my rebuild. The 'as found' photo, does not show that I also got a almost intact cab and some rather rare parts, such as original side curtains (I had new ones made from the remains), spare tyre rack, tool box, etc... I have spent over three years solid work, and a couple years very little work, to arrive at being roughly 60% done. I know you have more people to work on yours, but I think you can get substantially more for $2000. If you don't do better initially, you may be up for much, much more later on. Even worse, you could lose interest if things stall for want of usable parts.

Incidentally, the engine you see in the photos, is a buildup of all new mechanicals, block, water pumps, carburetor, distributor, etc, etc.... If you want to piddle away cash, follow my lead. If are clever, you will use my actions as a WARNING, and avoid what I have done. It would be embarrassing to admit how much money has been sunk into my engine. I should have gone to a hotrod shop and reversed their 'modifications'.

Beware of the 'it ran a while ago' engine. I bought a Ford Sidevalve from a supposed fellow enthusiast/restorer which was supposed to be a "good, rebuildable engine". When I removed the heads, entire engine was solid with rust and full of water. If you don't get to hear the engine running, best to assume it's stuffed! If it is knackered, you won't be surprised. If it isn't bad at all, that's a big bonus. Mind you, if swapping it for a later engine, who cares anyway. Check the chassis VERY WELL for cracks and bad welding any time in last 70+ years. Some trucks were absolutely flogged to death, and chassis often showed this. Mine was shortened, but salvagable, though not without specialist welding first. That said, I haven't finished the truck, so it's not been tested yet!

Please don't feel we are discouraging you, Luke. In fact, it's quite the opposite. All the folks here are motivated to encourage and assist where possible. I can only speak for myself with the next statement. I feel there are better vehicles for that kind of price.