I've run stuff a few times with no rad, I never run it hotter than when I can comfortably keep my hand on the head. Also wouldn't do it it at all with a wet sleeve diesel.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Kelly
this is a timely topic. I have the C8 radiator out and I have been fitting a Lucas C39 generator for a 12V system . I cannot justify a single 6V battery as all my other vehicles are 12v
Anyway I pulled the dissy out , wish I hadnt now. I stuffed around trying to re install it to the correct timing ........... anyway its back in I think . With a quick spin over on the starter motor, I could not get oil pressure on the gauge as I normally do , me thinks , the tang isn't engaging the oil pump drive slot . After numerous attempts .... I realised something else is wrong . I then drove the oil pump with a drill down the hole , still no oil pressure on the gauge . What the hell is going on .
I removed the oil line to the gauge on the side of the engine. I turned the oil pump over manually with a screwdriver down the hole..... a little burp and oil came out ... with finger over the outlet I can feel oil pressure . the pump is working OK
The thin oil pipe to the gauge , I removed the gauge end and blew down the pipe.... it was not completely blocked but came free after a while
Anyway back together, still no oil pressure ...... even after running for the engine with no radiator for 10 seconds
Then it dawned on me, with this very cold weather , the oil has increased viscosity . I checked the oil in the sump ,it looks rather thick and I think I put Morays in it years ago. I compared the flow rate of the sump oil with new 20/50 oil... dripping it off the dip stick New oil flows much easier than the treacle in the sump. Hopefully the gauge will work with fresh oil in the sump
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The 216 in my C15A, which is within rebuild specs has a very annoying issue at the moment. If it sits for a while (several months) it won't build up oil pressure - seems to lose its prime. Or maybe it would eventually but it takes too long for me. So I pull the dizzy out, whizz the oil pump over with a long slotted driver in a drill (and it gets good oil pressure fast then) then put the dizzy back on. Getting pretty quick at the whole process without losing time. You just have to line the oil pump slot up to where the dizzy will be when it's in time - which takes a bit of trial and error as the helical teeth rotate it a bit as you push it in.