11 Set stuff

[Mike K]

Those meters with the test probe directly mounted on the meter , are primarily meant to used with a test panel . I cannot imagine anyone using those meters by placing the meter and its probe directly onto the valve sockets , which are mostly inaccessible and surrounded by wiring and other components . Most of the smaller valves I've seen have the anode pin on the base , the cap is , if present , is usually the control grid . I think a multimeter would be of more use for servicing wireless sets . The famous AVO meter perhaps ?

I only know of the 11 set having a test panel . The R107 sets are just not seen over here .

BTW the Australian version of that meter was made for the 11 set specifically . The Aust. meter isn't listed in any other wireless set parts list as far as I know .

[Chris Suslowicz]

Originally Posted by Mike Kelly

Those meters with the test probe directly mounted on the meter , are primarily meant to used with a test panel . I cannot imagine anyone using those meters by placing the meter and its probe directly onto the valve sockets , which are mostly inaccessible and surrounded by wiring and other components . Most of the smaller valves I've seen have the anode pin on the base , the cap is , if present , is usually the control grid . I think a multimeter would be of more use for servicing wireless sets . The famous AVO meter perhaps ?

I only know of the 11 set having a test panel . The R107 sets are just not seen over here .

BTW the Australian version of that meter was made for the 11 set specifically . The Aust. meter isn't listed in any other wireless set parts list as far as I know .

Hmmm...

Having just looked at the R107 working instructions it gives the expected cathode voltages using an Avo Model 7, so you may be right on that score - I remain convinced that the R109 was issued with the pocket voltmeter for faultfinding, but the voltages were measured on an internal tagboard; I shall have to dig for that manual.

My WS11 manuals list the pocket voltmeter and its case, with a footnote stating "Normally carried in Cases, Spare Parts, No.5B". The manual is dated 22nd Nov 1939 and internally notes"January 1939, amended 20th January 1939, revised and reprinted 10th February 1939". It has an addendum sheet in the back that shows the pocket voltmeters to be worse than I first thought! (23rd November 1940) ...it has become necessary to decrease the resistance of the Voltmeter, Pocket, No.2 from approximately 300 ohms to 125 ohms. The new type of voltmeter will be designated Voltmeter, Pocket, No.3...

It then gives a table showing the different readings for each test point if the No.3 is used.

The pocket voltmeter may well have been introduced for the W.S.11, but I suspect it was found to be a very useful tool and found its way into a lot of kit.

Earlier sets (W.S.1 and W/T sets (various)) had "Voltmeter, Pocket, 'x' Volts", where 'x' was specific to the set (6 volt or 60 volt, etc.).

Chris.
[1] On which note, Plate 13 looks quite legible and it might be possible to transcribe the text on the R.H. door of the charging switchboard.

[cletrac (RIP)]

The bottom 3/4 of the instructions are word for word from the WS 11 manual. The top paragraph is a bit harder.

Switchboard Charging No 1
WORKING INSTRUCTIONS
The switchboard No 1 is connected to the
wireless set no 11 by means of the two wire
"plug-socket" provided. The leads from the
switchboard charging terminals should be
connected to the battery pole leg , ????? taking
care that the polarity is correct. The batteries
should be connected to the switchboard by the
leads and "Niphon" plugs supplied.

I'm unsure of the italics and the question marks.

[Mike K]

Originally Posted by cletrac

The bottom 3/4 of the instructions are word for word from the WS 11 manual. The top paragraph is a bit harder.

Switchboard Charging No 1
???? INSTRUCTIONS
The switchboard No 1 is connected to the
wireless set no 11 by means of the two wire
"plug-socket" provided. The leads from the
switchboard charging terminals should be
connected to the battery pole leg , ????? taking
care that the polarity is correct. The batteries
should be connected to the switchboard by the
leads and "Niphon" plugs supplied.

I'm unsure of the italics and the question marks.

I do have a couple of WW2 Niphan plugs , the British ones - they do plug into my ww2 British batteries . I should do a drawing of the plugs . I believe the company is still making plugs NIPHAN in the uk .

BTW the Aust. WW2 era niphan plugs are different, they will not plug into the British sockets . My 1943 dated British battery box drawings are on this forum somewhere .

I found those WW2 wireless set acid batteries out in hughes yard Coburg .

This guy has a niphan plug , and that test meter as well .

http://www.wwiireenacting.co.uk/foru...p?f=42&t=76556

[cletrac (RIP)]

I picked up some stuff in town to reproduce a switchboard. The panel piece is 12" square and the sides are 3" deep. I guessed that the panel is recessed 3/4" and went from there.
The toggles on the switches are the same size and shape as an ordinary household light switch. The bolts that hold the cover plate to the switch are the same spacing as the top switches on the switchboard. Some hardware strap hinges are the proper size too.
I ordered some nylon shoulder washers and knurled thumb nuts off ebay and am watching for some 25 amp or volt gauges to show up. There's quite a few outfits that made analog gauges that would work.
The terminals for attaching wires are 1/4" NC by the look of it.

[Ron Pier]

I am also looking at making the metal cabinet, even if I just stick a picture of the switch gear inside for now. So I guess the hight measurement of 16 1/4" must include the strap at the bottom. Can I query why you made it 12" and 3" instead of 12 5/8" and 4"? Studying the picture seems to show that the doors have about a 1/2" rounded edge, which would add up to the stated depth of 4 1/2". Can I also ask what thickness of material you are using? I am guessing at something like 12 gauge? So 2 -2.5mm sheet. Regards Ron

[cletrac (RIP)]

I deciphered the instructions that go on the charging switchboard's door and came up with a pretty good rendition. This picture is actual size and can be printed on some plastic and riveted to the door. It needs a legal sized printer though. It uses 6 rivets.
Ron, the 12 5/8 includes the hinges and the height includes the mounting lug. The depth is the 3" sides plus the 1" doors plus the hinges. It all works out OK. The material is 1/8" or 11 gauge. They must have wanted bullets to bounce off it!
I think the doors just have the edges bent by a break and that gives a bit of a rounded corner.

[Ron Pier]

Ah that answers my queries David. I'm just gathering facts and figures before I make a start. I'm also trying to decide what is happening in the middle where the doors meet. It looks like the left door has a rebate with a flat for the right door to sit on top of? Have you got a better picture of the front than the one I posted? Cheers Ron

[Chris Suslowicz]

Originally Posted by cletrac

The bottom 3/4 of the instructions are word for word from the WS 11 manual. The top paragraph is a bit harder.

Switchboard Charging No 1
WORKING INSTRUCTIONS
The switchboard No 1 is connected to the
wireless set no 11 by means of the two wire
"plug-socket" provided. The leads from the
switchboard charging terminals should be
connected to the battery pole leg , ????? taking
care that the polarity is correct. The batteries
should be connected to the switchboard by the
leads and "Niphon" plugs supplied.

I'm unsure of the italics and the question marks.

The unclear part reads "Carbon Pile Regulator".

It's also "Niphan" with a 'a' (but you have to know that in advance (grin)).

Niphan connectors are still in production, but the modern ones are either plastic or stainless steel, I think. (Also the company is only interested in large commercial orders and Defence contracts, and completely uninterested in sales to the general public.)

Chris.