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#1
15-08-14, 21:44
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Challenging?
Love watching someone making a job which for most of us would be either challenging or impossible look easy.
You are a true craftsman, Mr. Jones!
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Film maker 42 FGT No8 (Aust) remains 42 FGT No9 (Aust) 42 F15 Keith Webb Macleod, Victoria Australia Also Canadian Military Pattern Vehicles group on Facebook https://www.facebook.com/groups/canadianmilitarypattern 
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#2
15-08-14, 23:35
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You are an inspiration Mr. Jones....
I have also search high and low for such hinges and like Phil came up empty.
Not having all the milling/press I think it can still be done albeit slowly. The big hurdle is to get a machine shop to make me the suitable half circle die. I am sure I can duplicate the bending press with my 20 ton hydraulic press for such a short item. I may cut the individual fingers with a metal band saw and finish slowly with a file. On the door skins..... lucky I have only 2 doors otherwise I would have to deal with four skins ....... did you prebend the two top bends in the top section first then worked on the sides .... How difficult was it doing the curved section.... it seems that it needs to be shrinked first when you do the first 90 degrees than stretched when you finally flatten that section down. Did you use any heat at all....? Did you spot weld one side before doing the opposite side?? Thanks for the pictures. Cheers
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Bob Carriere....B.T.B C15a Cab 11 Hammond, Ontario Canada Last edited by Bob Carriere; 15-08-14 at 23:41.
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#3
16-08-14, 00:40
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These look similar from Macs
Bit hard to say without comparing side by side Model A Ford Front Door Hinge Set - Open Car - Roadster & Phaeton - 2 Hole Bottom Hinge - FORD  Click on above image to view full picture(s) More Views Part #: 28-22549-1 Alt Part #: A35600AS Price: $54.25 Set Low Price Guarantee Fitment: 1928 thru 1930 See applications below for exact details. Add Items to CartQty:  OR Model A Ford Rear Door Hinge Set - Phaeton - 1928-29 Only - FORD  Click on above image to view full picture(s) More Views Part #: 28-22643-1 Alt Part #: A36400AS Price: $159.95 Set Low Price Guarantee Fitment: 1928 thru 1929 See applications below for exact details. Add Items to CartQty:
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Have a good one  Andrew Custodian of the "Rare and Rusty" 
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#4
16-08-14, 02:51
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Not the same.....
I was able to compare them at their facilities in Lockport NY and they are not the same...... at the very least you would need to reweld the hole and redrill.
At the time they also had a very pricy set without holes drilled made of solid brass at over $100 each..... which could have been drilled to fit but the price and the lesser strenght of the brass discouraged me from buying. The cab11/12 hinges are definitely a weak link for these trucks.... they sagged and twisted but they were not designed to last 75 years!!!! All the examples I have are stretched out at the top hinge and twisted inwards at the bottom...... makes it hard to decide what shape they were originally. In redoing the frame work of my doors I took the opportunity to brace the weak areas around the lock which means I have added slightly to the weight the hinges will carry. So far I have not been able to find similar lock mechanism so derusting and rebuilding is in order. On some of my locks have metal added either welded or crudely brazed on the protruding latch mechanism to counter the widening of the door gap due to sagging of the rear wall leaving the door unlatched. Door skins are my next project. Cheers
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Bob Carriere....B.T.B C15a Cab 11 Hammond, Ontario Canada
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#5
16-08-14, 03:59
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Quote:
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Howard Holgate F15 #12 F15A #13 (stretched) F60S #13 C15A #13 Wireless (incomplete)
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#6
16-08-14, 05:55
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Thankyou for you comments and now I know why I'm not on Howards Xmas card list
 Bob, to answer your questions. To make the half circle die is very simple to make without a mill. I used two separate steel blocks about 2"x3"x1" put them together and drilled a hole at the centre where they touch. if you have a pedestal drill I would suggest to pilot drill a 1/4" hole first and then use the full size drill you need. The drill size you need is! Pin thickness= 1/4" or 6mm or what ever you're using Thickness of material x 2= about 14mm or 9/16 After it's drilled, pull them apart and you have 2 half circle forming dies. Don't forget to centre punch the location before you drill the pilot hole. Believe me bob it is that simple if your using mild steel. Don't forget you're not going into production so mild steel is fine. A general garage press is more than sufficient to bend these. I never used any heat at all to bend any part of the doors. Cutting the individual fingers with a band saw, hacksaw, jigsaw, reciprocating saw is good if you get the required end result. Door skins!!~ Four skins will just take you longer and probably more painfull  I used 1mm thick and just laid the door on top before I deskun it and traced around with sharp chalk. I used my 5" grinder with a very thin blade to cut the sheet including the big curve about 1/2" outside the perimeter. but I had to measure the top accurately and allow for the bend radius which is about the thickness or the sheet per bend. I pre drilled the 2 holes at the top for the window frames and then folded the 2 top bends. If I never had a folder I would clamp 2 pieces of flatbar with the material in between and very slowly hammer over with a wide head hammer. I used a few clamps close to where I hammer and move them frequently I never used any heat at all and the curved section is just the same as the rest but just don't try to bend high angles all at once. On one door I did use the spot welder as that is what was done to that particular door. The other one is quite different so they were made by different suppliers. I also use anything I have to use as bending dolly's like flat punches or pieces of round rod. I hope this helps and you'll never learn unless you give it a turn. On a finishing door note! I also made the small pieces that fit and bolt to the top of the doors for the softskin windows.
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#7
16-08-14, 06:03
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Yes I know they are not "period bolts" so shane can change them if he wants to.
Shane' if you're watching you can pick your doors up and bring the clevis with you and I'll make pin while you wait. Colin. 
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#8
16-08-14, 08:43
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Wow
Mate i am lost for words you truly are a genius
 Amazing that you are self taught and can produce such work im blown away Mr Jones. Cant wait to come over and see them how does Wednesday sound after you have dropped the kids off to school? Im a very happy man Thankyou so much Colin
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F60L Cab 12 Last edited by Shane; 16-08-14 at 10:06.
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#9
16-08-14, 23:39
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Colin, you do fine work! We may have to call you "Sir Colin" from now on!
Good description of the door hinge failures over time. I have seen lots of Cab 13 doors here in Canada with the same problem and they have a much more robust design. Seems the driver side door shows more failure than the passenger door. I suspect decades of people using the door to pull themselves up into the cab and lower themselves out, by grabbing the top of the door takes it's toll. David
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