Richie's Mk1 Restoration

Ben · #1 04-07-14, 16:35

What Richard said. They were spot on!

RichardT10829 · #2 04-07-14, 16:46

how did you hand fettle them ? sand paper then offer them into the drums ?

Richard Farrant · #3 04-07-14, 20:13

Quote:

Originally Posted by RichardT10829

how did you hand fettle them ? sand paper then offer them into the drums ?

You've got the picture ! Making sure they touch all round and don't rock.

RichardT10829 · #4 05-07-14, 21:40

Well had a busy day at work, then came home and broke the tracks, and took the drums off, here are my findings:-

Left drum (the problem drum)

RichardT10829 · #5 05-07-14, 21:45

Right drum:-

RichardT10829 · #6 05-07-14, 22:13

If the drums start at 14" looks like they have been skimmed once and had an 1/8th taken out. Yet the shoes have no shims underneath ? So if I was to get another 1/8 taken off to correct the drums do I need to factor in the previous metal takenout plus what I have taken out this time ?? How thick do the shoes need to be then ?

Richard Farrant · #7 05-07-14, 22:36

Quote:

Originally Posted by RichardT10829

If the drums start at 14" looks like they have been skimmed once and had an 1/8th taken out. Yet the shoes have no shims underneath ? So if I was to get another 1/8 taken off to correct he drums do I need to factor in the previous metal takenout plus what I have taken out this time ?? How thick do the shoes need to be then ?

The Canadian manual UC-F1 quotes 14" so looks like the drums might have been skimmed. Bad practise to shim between lining and shoe, best solution is thicker linings, you know the standard lining thickness from the manual. The brake reliners will work it out from there. They can profile to fit the drum.

I am surprised you never inspected the brakes earlier on, a crucial area, being steering and brakes. Check the hub bearings for pitting too, due to condensation and standing around.