Restoration of Hull 731- Carrier, MG (Aust) Mortar Carrying

Darrin Wright · #1 28-05-14, 09:43

Busy weekend and start to the week.
Managed to use the front left of the hull as a tool/mounting point to fit up a couple of front stub axle mounting plates to remove front wheels and salvage the bearings and spacer plates.
When finished I mounted the repaired and painted LHF stub axle mounting plate to the hull.

Installed the fan shroud and fitted the generator to check the fit. Looks good so far, unfortunately I had to remove the LH upper coolant pipe. Luckily I have not got around to filling with coolant as I am still researching and debating using waterless coolant or a rust inhibitor/coolant with distilled water.

Continued the assembly of the drivers floor plate, cleaned threaded sections, installed anti-seize, fit clevis yokes correctly, installed a new bearing onto the steering column, individually measured, cut & drilled new clevis pins for the yokes. Still missing some items like the left & right threaded turnbuckles, so will get them made in the next couple of weeks.

After the weekend, flew to Adelaide for work and to catch up with Colin Jones over coffee. Checked out his Acco 6x6 project, progressing well. He has set himself a busy schedule for March 2015. Then back to Melb Tuesday.

Darrin Wright · #2 10-06-14, 13:54

No update last week as all I achieved was a couple of hours washing out wheel bearings and recovering the plates that hold the seals in place inside the wheel. Not really exciting stuff....

However, this weekend was a long weekend and I spent several extra days working at Bandiana; so got a bit done.
With the good weather I pushed the hull outside and prepared the front interior for painting and also a number of parts that can bolt into the front hull. Also painted the rear diff armoured cover, so now it is ready to be installed with 2 coats of green.
Picked 2 of my good NOS wheels and re-greased and installed the front bearings, new seals and managed to get the RHF wheel assembly mounted to the stub axle. Only managed to get the LHF wheel on a little bit before the bearing caught at an angle on the stub axle. Will have to use my puller to remove it and investigate why? possible small burr or maybe I just had it at the wrong angle????
Installed some of the front hull fittings that I painted and hung the rear armour on the back of the hull.

the hull is getting quite heavy for my wheel dollies, so will have to concentrate on getting the bogie suspension stripped, cleaned, painted and installed. Then I should be able to move it in and out on its wheels.

The paint, while using 30% flattening base, did not flatten/dull down as much as last time I painted the rear and exterior of the hull. not sure why, but in time it will fade. So the pics may appear a bit glossy...

Darrin Wright · #3 18-06-14, 05:20

I had to free up and lubricate my handbrake lever and replace the locking nut on the NOS handbrake cable as it had seized. Not sure why, possibly overlooked years ago when I blasted & painted it.
Using new hardware have installed the handbrake cable onto the handbrake lever and installed it into the hull.

Fitted the drivers seat into position. This had been assembled and painted weeks ago. Have used all new slotted nuts and drilling all the bolts for split pins. Even conducted test fitting of driver in position, it will be better with seat cushions I tell myself...
The control rods between steering column to steering cam plate have been placed into position, but not fitted to the cam plate as this is possible a 2 person job. Will enlist the assistance of a child.

Pulled the wiring through the conduit and assembled/installed that into the front hull. This turned out to be quite a job, back then they may have used child labour as I found it a bit tight and working at different angles and upside down added to my problems. Used anti-seize on all bolts and conduit, and if I had to do this again, would recommend installing the handbrake lever after the conduit is in. Even used some original conduit from this hull with bends etc, but upon installation looks like it will need some adjustment the more I install and fit.

Dale Jordan · #4 18-06-14, 05:30

Excellent workmanship Darrin . Good timing for me with these photos, I needed that shot of the conduit layout under the nose . Did you use modern new saddles to hold in place ? also notice that your left hand head light guard must be further outboard on your fender then my carrier . Dale

Darrin Wright · #5 18-06-14, 06:45

Dale, I don't believe that you can get these old style thick half saddles anymore.
I have managed to salvage from 4 hulls (project hull included) conduit, fittings and saddles. Using modern steel tubing I have replaced several sections of straight conduit and threaded it myself with a 3/4" UNF die.
The conduit against the centre bulkhead and under the air scoop is 1" dia and due to that being high off the floor has survived very well. The additional diameter is to accommodate the extra wiring for the generator, regulator and to battery.

Dale Jordan · #6 18-06-14, 07:07

Thanks Darrin . Where does the change from 3/4 '' to 1'' take place is it from the tee peace under the instrument panel or at the right angle at the fire wall . also is the 3/4'' and 1'' outside O/D or inside .. Dale

Keith Webb · #7 18-06-14, 11:39

You mean saddles like this one with a carrier part number stamped into it?

Darrin Wright · #8 23-06-14, 11:31

I managed to spend most of Saturday working on the BGC and achieved a fair bit.
Removed that front left wheel and inspected the stub axle. There were several small burs or gouges that were catching the outer bearing. So filed and polished these off and then the wheel slid into place, installed the slotted nut and split pin.
Bought more nuts & bolts for the rear armoured diff cover, painted these and located the rear cover into position. Had to run the electric drill through some of the holes to get the bolts through. Prior to fitting this, it was easier to run the rear wiring loom and install the conduit in position and drill and mount the half saddle that holds the conduit in place. I am using modern wire and running additional earth wires were required.

Fix or adjusted the front conduit so that it sits correctly and ran a new (longer) wire in position as I was not happy with the other wire.

Installed the steering box onto the steering column, had to clean the splines with a file and wire brush and used plenty of lubricant to get them together. I do not fancy trying to separate the 2 items later...

I then installed the drivers floor plate into position to check fit, got carried away with the progress and installed the steering column into position. Still waiting on the 1/2" UNF turn buckles to be machined, but they can be installed later. Will install the mounting bolts for the floor plate this weekend.

Went to install the clutch rod, which I had made previous, and found that it was too long. This item I had made from the measurements in the parts book, minor oversight back then. Will cut down the rod and re-thread.
I also painted several items for installation in the coming weeks.