Ford Blitz Restoration/Rebuild

[jack neville]

Originally Posted by Private_collector

While cleaning up at my Father In Laws place, we came across a curious, and very well constructed, metal frame, which was initially of unknown purpose. It is 2.4m (?8ft) long x 2.0m (6+ft) wide. A lot of work went into this, with weld around all sides of all joins. None of us knew this even existed, and no one recalls seing it being constructed! It is most definately a frame for the rear of a decent size utility vehicle. Odd though, the only vehicle he had already has a tray back, and I don't think he was considering changing that off.

After some prelimenary measurements, I believe this frame will fit the back of my truck with minimal modification. Certainly isn't too wide, and I do believe once the tool box & tyre carrier are installed, it will fit in nicely behind that, with little hang over (possibly < 150mm/6") at the rear. Many options have been considered for what to do about rear body, and with the discovery of this frame, I think this is my choice. It's too good to overlook, and it would be a shameful act to see it go to someone else, or possibly end up as scrap. My Father In Law was every bit the welder I knew I wouldn't be!

Prior to discovering this frame, we discovered a sizable pile of tongue & groove floorboards in one corner of the shed. We had no idea what these were for, as no renovations were planned, nor was there any other lumber anywhere around. The mystery depened when, upon closer examination, each length was seen to have a unique number written on one end. There was around 25 - 30 boards, from memory. Once we found the steel frame, the mystery was solved of course. The hardwood lengths were intended for the construction of the ute tray! Such was the thorough planning and execution of everything he did. When all the boards were lain roughly in their final order, I couldn't help notice that despite a lot of variation in the board colors, when in 'order' they looked to be in a nice pattern, with no two identical ones together. I will ensure they are fixed in their correct order, as was intended by the maker. Quite a nice touch to an otherwise mundane item which nobody will give much thought to. I intend to have the boards fine sanded (professionally) when secured in final position. Floor sander guy will probably think I have gone rather potty, but those of us in the family will know the full story.

Now you do too.

Tony ,

Can you post a picture of the frame you found. I have a suspicion...

Jack

[Private_collector]

Hi Jack,

Not yet brought it home, but will be there today and will take a photo to post.

[Private_collector]

Bought the foam tubing I will use to protect transfer case from the chains while hoisting into place. Didn't get home until after 1630hrs, so that will either be done tomorrow, if I have enough day left after the mowing, or Wednesday, which is my day off.

Jack, here is the rear body frame I have been talking about. The front of it is closest to camera, and it is standing up on one side. Must gat that home soon too, before the weather ruins it! I think it should go to the sandblasters before finishing the trip home. The timbers for the floor will have to be stored in one of my sheds. We have termites in the ground, here. They must have teeth of steel. They can even chew hardwood......eventually.
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This is the fuel tank that will eventually get 'restored' in an appropriate military color, have a 1940s Shell sticker applied, and stand outside the workshop.
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It will get a thorough sandblasting prior, of course. I rebuilt the fuel nozzle a couple of weeks ago. The correct type of fuel hose rubber is available locally, from Roadside Relics in Gympie. They specialise in vintage fuel bowsers and service station related collectables. Have a look here:
http://www.roadsiderelics.com.au/

I spoke with one of the guys at Jacobsens Auto Engineering on Friday. They will be contacting me next week with a guestimate of cost to reassemble the engine. Because the block is one of the French made flathead v8s, there are several special requirements which do not apply to a Ford manufactured one, so I will need to ensure these are relayed to them so they can do the build correctly. No idea how much $$$ to expect it will cost!

[Private_collector]

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Both the front shafts are now reassembled, awaiting transfer case installation, courtesy of a replacement uni bought yesterday. Note, all the lube nipples face the same way, to make servicing less painful!
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I took the cowards way out, and added eleventeen gasket pieces to the oil seal plate of input shaft.
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Started to attempt istallation, but ran out of day, and my better judgement took over, to halt play for another day. I think I will put the selector tower bracket on before I raise the case again. I came to realise the chain at that end of the case would foul against the chassis because the lifting attachment points are too close together. Even though there is a piece of carpet around the cross member, if I don't attach the chains better, i'm sure to scrape paint off.
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This is as far as I got before putting the truck to bed. Pity not to finish the job, but it'll keep. We have a public holiday here on Friday, so if I can't get it done on Wednesday, i'll aim for Friday.

[Dinty]

Nice work mate, I enjoy looking at work done by other enthusiasts, thanks for sharing, cheers Dennis

[Private_collector]

You may recall I recently contacted an engineering firm for a quote to reassemble my Ford Sidevalve engine. That phonecall was Friday, and as they had promised, I got a return call today with their quote. Firstly, let me say the price indicted was not a firm amount, it was advised to be a rough estimate, and was based on similar rebuilds they had done in past. Playing devils advocate, I think they may have been struggling with the concept that this is effectively a new engine. As the conversation progressed, I clarified that a number of tasks associated with a rebuild are not applicable here. Things such as line boring mains, testing & repairing con rods where applicable, and machining valve seats were spoken about. I could confirm these jobs were not required, and although they said this could decrease the cost by a bit, I can't help but feel the estimate of $3400 to put the engine together is a little harsh! I know of two people who have had work done there, and it has been exceptionally good standard in both cases. There is no doubt I would be happy with the outcome, but at 3k+, that is more than I wish to part with.

Perhaps I should be writing a list of what parts are brand new, and document the tasks which will not be required in this assembly. I initially hoped that my indicating 'everything is new' would allow any prospective firm to quote for what is in essence a very easy build. That said, I know for a fact that in this case it was not fully understood that the block itself was absolutely ununsed & literally brand new. Not surprising when you consider that not many (if any others at all) of the French manufactured blocks/engines have made their way to Australia. I should imagine that after clarification of the above, the final cost of reassembly would be very much reduced from the estimate, but can I afford to take that chance? Not really! Even if the invoice was 1/2 the amount, that is more than I had expected under the circumstances.

Guess I will get further quotes. I'll also do my best to ensure that it is fully understood that no internal components require repair or reconditioning in any way.

Ho, hum!

[Shane]

Wow my motor to be completely striped and rebuilt cost me $1000 and she was not in good health. However i did spend around $400 on parts and we shall see what happens when i fire her up, i will know in two months or so. Its been great reading all your posts, your information on each step will help many of us who are learning the art of restoration.

[Tony Wheeler]

Originally Posted by Private_collector

I initially hoped that my indicating 'everything is new' would allow any prospective firm to quote for what is in essence a very easy build.

That being the case Tony, and at the risk of stating of the obvious, can I suggest you do it yourself! There are no special tools required and everything you need to know is in your trusty Ford manual. In your case the only issue is compatibility, eg. crank/rod/piston combo, and you've already sorted all that. You just need to assemble it now, which I can assure you is a piece of cake. In fact it can be done by a 16 yo kid with no mechanical experience beyond Meccano and bicycles! And you don't even need a shed!

Seriously though I'd recommend you do it yourself, because quite apart from saving money it's probably the most enjoyable and satisfying part of the whole resto. The only tedious part I recall was adjusting the valve clearance after lapping the valves in, because you have to repeatedly reassemble the valve guides into the block and remeasure the clearance, to make sure you don't grind too much off the mushroom tips. Also I was using a hand driven grinder which didn't help matters much! However you can avoid all that by getting a machine shop to grind the required amount off each valve, after you've measured the initial clearances. Apart from that the only tricky part I recall was putting rings on pistons without a ring expander, as they have a nasty habit of snapping! These days you can probably buy the appropriate tool dirt cheap, otherwise get an engine shop to fit the rings. Also I notice the French block is relieved, which could make it tricky to install the pistons, ie. the rings may pop out of an ordinary ring compressor tool. You could probably trim one to fit the relief, otherwise get the engine shop to do that stage of assembly as well.

Apart from those areas the reality is you'd probably do a better job than someone on an hourly rate, and you can be pretty sure they've never even heard of a French flathead, let alone seen one! You're the one who knows it intimately and you're the one who sourced all the right parts, and you're the one with plenty of time to be fussy about assembly. Personally I'd rather torque every nut and bolt myself so I know it's been done to spec, not just to standard shop practice. Plus you get to measure every clearance yourself, which you'll never know if you give it to an engine shop. Also I doubt there'd be an engine shop in Australia as scrupulously clean as you!

Anyway Tony I think you should give it serious consideration, because this is purely an assembly job, not a rebuild, and having seen your work in this thread it's obviously well within your ability. All the instructions are in the Ford manual, and if you need any advice along the way you can always ask on MLU, just like everything else on a CMP. Like for example the importance of thermostats, which I seem to have overlooked as a kid!

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