Richie's Mk1 Restoration

[chris vickery]

Ritchie, no need to worry about a few scars, I am sure the boys at Ford Windsor were not too particular on the assembly line. In fact, not being too exact probably makes things more authentic. It is easy to over restore stuff because we think it looks better when in fact it makes things incorrect.
I have seen many Willys jeeps that are too well done because the owners did not like the look of rough welds, seams etc and applied copious does of grinding, polishing and body filler. Just sayin'.

[RichardT10829]

Points well made :-)

Yes 11 weeks to go the clock is rapidly running down, the last major hurdle is the engine... If that runs and my carrier starts, stops, and steers I can hide my shame by piling loads of crap onto the carrier for the show hehehe.

Electric loom is done waiting to go back in eventually...

Jnr and I fired a few more rivets in today and got the armour segment fitted back on, along with the last of the 5/16 rivets into the armour squares on the centre bulkhead. I have three more 3/8 to fire in on the rear armour for the rifle rest, but that's it for the riveting......sure I have said that before ?

[RichardT10829]

I am going round in circles with this timing cover..... The crab type two bolt cover came.... Cleaned the cosmolene off, painted it.... Fitted it...... Bloody dizzy does not fit!!! Bolt holes marry up correct... However the dizzy won't butt up against the plate, I have about a 10mm clearance issue.... What am I doing wrong ?




The dizzy drive is solid against the cam shaft in this pic


Miffed off !

[chris vickery]

Richard, is that an original Crab type dizzy or some kind of aftermarket modern one, I can't see from your pic?
The other issue here in case you did not notice is that the slot on the cam and drive key on the back of dizzy are off center I think and will only mate up one way or the other. You may have to rotate the drive in the dizzy 180deg. Its been a while since I played around with these.
Also, perhaps verify the dimensions on the key vs the slot to make sure they jive. I believe all flathead cams are the same but I am no expert.

[Richard Farrant]

In Tony's post #461 he shows an adaptor plate:
http://www.mapleleafup.net/forums/at...1&d=1396649043

This stands out from the original timing cover and the thickness of the adaptor looks similar to the gap you have, assuming dog is engaged with cam slot.

[RichardT10829]

I thought the adaptor plate was to convert from three bolt dizzy to two.... I can see it would stand the dizzy off though.

The drive fits into the cam no bother.... Not sure about the dizzy whether it's after market or not, I got it from Ben

[Andrew Rowe]

Camshafts for the flatheadheads do come in different lengths.
I try and use a T5 cam (Truck ) on carrier engines, better torque curve. Your one is designed for the "Egg type dizzy" , so the only way to fit the "crab dizzy"
is to use the adapter plate. The previous post make sense also for the position of the slot, I have also seen a key adapter for the slot on the end of the cam, but I don't think this applies in your situation.

[chris vickery]

Richard
The adapter plate is just that, an adapter. Don't get confused.
It was meant to use a 2 bolt crab type on a 3 bolt divers helmet type plate.
The issue here is that you now have a two hole plate which is correct for the crab distributor.
One time I changed out mine and it was a simple swap. I am somewhat confused as to why it doesn't mate. My suggestion of cam difference has been confirmed by the previous post. I was hoping that you have the correct length cam. I know that Mercury parts are somewhat different so there is a distinct possibility...
Alternately, a simple spacer may get you where you need to be if cam length is the issue....as long as the drive engages the cam you're good to go.