Lynx II, hull # 4225

[Peter Duggan]

Started by removing the soft skin pieces off the RH side. The deeper I dig the better it looks. I've also attached a picture (thanks Bruce) of the missing armoured fuel tank cover and a fuel tank. Should anyone be aware of the location of any of these pieces, please sing out.

photo (2).jpg Last Roll - 08.jpg

[Alex van de Wetering]

Peter,

Congrats on the purchase! Great to see another Lynx coming back from the dead.

Alex

[Peter Duggan]

Folks,

She's slowly sharing her secrets. I have all the exterior soft skin components removed, tagged and stored. Next step will be to access the engine compartment and remove the engine.
It appears that the original paint colour was desert sand before being painted Khaki green. The lettering 13-C was apparently hand painted on the desert sand before the Khaki green.
Did any Canadian units use Lynx's with the desert sand colours? Apparently the New Zealand forces used Lynx's in Italy?

Thanks, Peter

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[chris vickery]

Peter,
if you are in need of any nickel welding rod to put that armour back together just let me know. I have several pounds laying around that I may be inclined to donate to such a deserving project.

[Peter Duggan]

Chris,

Thanks for the offer. When it comes to the welding, I'll be entrusting that to someone far more professional than myself.

Peter

[chris vickery]

Well Peter, the offer is open. Even a professional will need rod to weld up that armour and it will be expensive as they will probably want to use Ni-rod. Not sure how general purpose mild steel rod will work with armour plate...
The other issue for sure will probably be the fact they will want to preheat the areas prior to welding to ensure sound welds that will be crack free.

[Bruce Parker (RIP)]

Originally Posted by chris vickery

Well Peter, the offer is open. Even a professional will need rod to weld up that armour and it will be expensive as they will probably want to use Ni-rod. Not sure how general purpose mild steel rod will work with armour plate...
The other issue for sure will probably be the fact they will want to preheat the areas prior to welding to ensure sound welds that will be crack free.

There might also be a problem that if the existing weld is not very clean the old weld rod (nickle) may not mix well with whatever new rod is being used.

[Bruce Parker (RIP)]

There is, of course, the well known fact that the Canadian 5th Armoured Division inherited a great deal of ex 8th Army desert vehicles once it deployed in Italy late 1943. Many crapped out sand coloured vehicles found their way into Canadian hands so a desert coloured Lynx attached to a 5th Div. unit (say Lord Strathcona's Horse, 8th Hussars or British Columbia Dragoons) would be out of order.

Originally Posted by Peter Duggan

Folks,

She's slowly sharing her secrets. I have all the exterior soft skin components removed, tagged and stored. Next step will be to access the engine compartment and remove the engine.
It appears that the original paint colour was desert sand before being painted Khaki green. The lettering 13-C was apparently hand painted on the desert sand before the Khaki green.
Did any Canadian units use Lynx's with the desert sand colours? Apparently the New Zealand forces used Lynx's in Italy?

Thanks, PeterAttachment 64718

Attachment 64719


Attachment 64720

[chris vickery]

MMM, desert sand 8th Army. Sexy.

[RichCam]

Peter,

I looked at the picture of the fuel tank. I think I might have one here at the shop. It was in with a bunch of old CMP parts and pieces. Can anyone tell me what the dimensions are? I might even have the fuel tank brackets!
Cheers - Richard

[Peter Duggan]

Richard,

Great news. I trial fitted a CMP tank, which had the fittings in the wrong locations, and it fit nicely. The dimensions are 10" x 12" x 32". The brackets would be most welcome as well. I have sourced a second tank, thanks to some fine networking with MLU members. MLU has a serious number of knowledgeable and generous members.

Sounds as if we'll be doing some trading. Thanks again, Peter. Won't even matter if I end up with two tanks for the same side. I've already got a fine example of how to convert one.

[Robert Bergeron]

Good luck on your project Peter !

Not too many of those around !



Robert

[Mrs Vampire]

so far as welding mild steel on armor ....it cracks off easily so the Ni Rod offer is a good one

So far as sand blasting ...I am against it unless extreme rust is the issue. All blasting removes original paint. I prefer to spot treat rust and paint over old paint so its still there.

Original paint on WWII vehicles is extremely rare. For my own tank I have only ever over painted so I have been able to go back and rub down to discover original markings , camo schemes and colours.

I am happily in the same position with my FGT #9 . Blast it off and its gone forever...no possibility of future research.