C60 cwt Signals CZMk IV

[Bob Carriere]

Nice job on the engine Gord.

Are you running a Roch B carb?

...and you used the 216 valve cover...... any suggestions on how to keep it from leaking...... did you use thicker gaskets.....? glue/sealer ???

It will be a shame to take it out for a test run and get it dirty.

Bob

[Gordon Yeo]

Bob

I got a remanufactured Rochester B1 carburetor and swapped out the cast base to fit the 235 manifold. My engine guy put his hand on the tappet cover and frame too asses vibration and said it runs very smoothly. Rebuilt hydraulic tappets must take some of the credit.

I put the 216 tappet cover on to have all the holes in the correct places. When trying to hold down the cover and not have any oil leaks it became apparent the modern gaskets are rubbish. My solution was too use two gaskets and dope them with the Aviation form-a-gasket. I like to use it and the expression ' sticks like s--t to a blanket ' was invented for this stuff. Side cover plates are usually difficult to get right and this stuff does the job.

I was at Acton yesterday and you were missed, get better soon. I got some supplies from Brian Asbury for wiring the lights up and can get at the rest of that project. Thank you to every one, who spoke to me yesterday, for their kind comments on how the truck is progressing.

Gord

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Gordon

Is that the oil line for the gauge, next to the manifold? Figured this might be a temp location.

With the modern gas the manifolds really run hot particularly on the bigger trucks that have to work to haul their aerodynamic bodies through the air. I've had to shield the oil filter lines for the top mounted oil filter and have routed the gauge line away from the engine with a loop over to the left cab frame then across the channel under the windshield over to the dash.

My solution to the valve cover gasket was similar gluing the cork gasket down to the cylinder head to act as a coffer dam around the top of the cylinder head. Without using gasket cement on the top so that cover can be removed to adjust the valves. Yours with the hydraulic valve lifters this should not be a problem.

Most of the the sheet metal valve covers have over the years been wrapped after years of tightening the top bolts trying to stop leaks. There have been some creative fixes for this including big U shaped hold downs fit under the cover bolts and extend down to the lower lip.

Your project is sure coming along and your attention to detail and finish is really setting the standard for the rest of us. Keep us posted.

Cheers Phil

[Gordon Yeo]

Phil

Thanks for the suggestion about re-routing the oil line. I was more concerned about having it lashed down and didn't consider the heating problem

At the moment I am trying to get my light wiring sorted out. I have scrounged up and reconditioned enough take-off original lights to do the fender markers and tail lights. Now I need to mount the tail lights, would any one out the have a picture of where and how tail lights are mounted on a Lindsey van body?

Gord

[Alex van de Wetering]

Gordon,

Excellent work and very inspiring.

Now I need to mount the tail lights, would any one out the have a picture of where and how tail lights are mounted on a Lindsey van body?

On a C60X Lindsey body the rear lights are mounted on the rear lower edge of the body, between the strips holding the rear fenders (left and right in same location). I presume your Lindsey body will be the same. I guess you should be able to find two small holes (bracket) with a larger hole (wiring) in the middle(?)
Clive's factory photo's CD has two excellent shots of the rear lights on a C60X. Attached you will find a pic of a restored C60X. The brackets were enlarged to add a larger light for modern traffic, but the idea is the same.
Originally two lights on the left, one on the right, although the brackets were identical on both sides....with two holes....one not used on the right side.

Alex

[Gordon Yeo]

Alex

Thank you very much for posting the photo of the tail lights. The mud flaps on the C60X are mounted exactly the same way as my C60 and the holes for the tail lights are there. There were no original lights on the truck and I needed confirmation that the holes present were for the original light brackets. I also will be mounting more appropriate service lights so that gives me a good design to copy.
You posted that you were glad to see another Lindsey body being restored, now you can say you have been a help in that enterprise.

Gord

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Gordon

Looking back through war time photos that have been posted over the years the small L shaped two light holder was pretty much standard.

Take a look at http://www.mapleleafup.net/forums/sh...ad.php?t=14097 I'll find some other photos.

Photos below are HUP but all of original mounting brackets for the Pattern 13s I have seen have look identical. Note the switch this is a late production change replacing the tail light isolation switch which had been on the frame near the right rear wheel to a switch on the tail light. It turns off the tail light and turns on a light under the truck aimed at the differential back which was painted white. This was for blackout convoy.

As tail lights they are totally worthless. On all of my three I've added 3" commercial truck tail lights. On my large trucks I have concealed these behind the standard round reflectors which where common to military vehicles.

I've been looking for good bright LED units to replace the bulbs.

Think I have an original bracket that came with my C60S on the shelf that I can do a drawing of.

Cheers Phil

[chris vickery]

Just a sugestion Gordon;
On one previous project that I restored, I used 4 of the rubber style early taillights with red lens and added two later type M series w/ full lens 24v type changed to 6v on quick disconnects (Packard). I used the Packard connectors so I could remove them if I wanted to display at a show and be more period correct.
At any rate, I would suggest using mil-spec lights of some type rather than anything civilian.

[Grant Bowker]

For a LED stop/turn/tail light, consider the 7" bus units. Grote, Truck-Lite and Peterson (and probably others) should all make comparable units, designed to mount on flat surfaces. Who could miss them? An example of what I'm thinking of is at the bottom of page 78 of this catalogue. http://www.grote.com/marketing/Liter...Turn-Lamps.pdf
To be even more conspicuous, mount them on a removable board covered in reflective sheeting. http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/mediawe...SevTSeSSSSSS--

[chris vickery]

The only issue with LED lighting may be the requirement for 12v. Not sure how the truck is being wired up but, if 6v, not sure whether or not LEDs will work. I don't think they make a 6v version...