Water in the oil

[Little Jo]

Hi Guys.

Thanks Keith. I had replaced the radiator cap, but alas I did not check the pressure, I took the radiator guys word that it was OK for my Jeep.

I removed the head gasket, easiest job ever, I just lifted it off, I didn't need to prise it at all, there were a few tell tale signs where the water had seeped under it. This also matched the rust marks on the head. So as I suspect it may not have been leaking for long, I hope so. I removed the spark plugs and only number 4 spark plug looked like it had been in contact with water. The work continues.

Cheers

Tony

[Keith Orpin]

Hi Tony,
Just had another small thought. It sounds like you did'nt have problems with over heating, how ever, at this stage I would change your thermostat for one that is fully open at 74 Degrees centigrade (which equates to 180 Degrees fareinheit).
Keep us posted
Keith ( from a very wet and windy UK)

[Little Jo]

Originally Posted by Keith Orpin

Hi Tony,
Just had another small thought. It sounds like you did'nt have problems with over heating, how ever, at this stage I would change your thermostat for one that is fully open at 74 Degrees centigrade (which equates to 180 Degrees fareinheit).
Keep us posted
Keith ( from a very wet and windy UK)

Hi Keith

I have been able to source a new head gasket, thermostat and thermostat retainer. So I will replace it all with new stuff, I have also decided to replace the head bolts with studs, which is an extra cost but I think well worth it. I will pick up all the parts tomorrow and today I will drop off the head for a shave. I thought I might as well do it all whilst I have it all stripped down.

I do have a question though, I have always used rainwater in the radiator and I was wondering if I can use the Green Coolant used in modern cars in my old 1942 engine and if so would that be a benefit or should I stick to using rainwater.

Cheers

Tony

[Grant Bowker]

If you are ever likely to see freezing temperatures, I suggest anti freeze.
It doesn't need to be anything fancy, no need for exotic "aluminum safe" or "multi-metal galvanic corosion prevention" as it's all pretty much cast iron and brass that got along just fine on lowtech versions. An ethylene glycol based antifreeze giving lowered freeze point and some anti-corrosion should be enough. But I would stay away from the old-time concoctions (wood alcohol, salt, honey etc.)
A side benefit is that antifeeze/coolant usually also raises the boiling point.

[Little Jo]

Hi Grant

That is some good advice. But where I live in the country here in South Australia, Man I would die if we had freezing temperatures and I would never leave the house. I feel for you guys in Canada and Europe at the moment, it is 22 degrees here today and that is cold for this time of the year. So I guess I can leave out the anti freeze in my jeep.

Cheers

Tony

[Lynn Eades]

Tony, A corrosion inhibitor prevents the build up of rust inside the block head etc.(assuming it is clean to start with) this then allows an efficient transfer of heat to the water, and away to the air at the radiator. The inhibitors do require careful sealing as they are inclined to leak more easily than plain water.
Keep in mind that 90+ percent of engine failures stem from cooling system problems. Does your engine have steel core ( or frost,or expansion) plugs? Is it worth trying to prevent any further internal corrosion of your block or head etc. from what you say the tin plated retainer for your thermostat had rotted away, so the inside of your block must also be slowly corroding. All that stuff helps to block up your radiator(don't forget to flush it, from top and bottom)
Yes I would recommend an inhibitor. An anti freeze type usually should be replaced yearly, whereas something like Fuchs engine coolant(German brand) might outlast you. (you mix it 50% with your rain water)

[Little Jo]

Originally Posted by Lynn Eades

Tony, A corrosion inhibitor prevents the build up of rust inside the block head etc.(assuming it is clean to start with) this then allows an efficient transfer of heat to the water, and away to the air at the radiator. The inhibitors do require careful sealing as they are inclined to leak more easily than plain water.
Keep in mind that 90+ percent of engine failures stem from cooling system problems. Does your engine have steel core ( or frost,or expansion) plugs? Is it worth trying to prevent any further internal corrosion of your block or head etc. from what you say the tin plated retainer for your thermostat had rotted away, so the inside of your block must also be slowly corroding. All that stuff helps to block up your radiator(don't forget to flush it, from top and bottom)
Yes I would recommend an inhibitor. An anti freeze type usually should be replaced yearly, whereas something like Fuchs engine coolant(German brand) might outlast you. (you mix it 50% with your rain water)

Hi Lynn

From what I am being told it is a good idea to use a corrosion inhibitor. One of our club members came around this morning and I showed him the stripped down head. He also suggested using an inhibitor and said as there were so many types in use to speak to Repco and they can advise what would be good inhibitor for the old girl.

I had the radiator rebuild 18 months ago and when I drained it before removing the head the water was still clear and clean, I will flush it doing the top and bottom before putting in the new thermostat and retainer. I know that when I filled the radiator it always seemed to find it's own level in the top tank after a drive.

I hope that after the head is shaved and all is back together I have solved the problem, but if there is still water in the oil after that then It means the engine coming out and stripping it down to find the leak. When my club friend had a look at the old gasket and head he suggested the head may not have been torqued down properly. Geez I hope that is all it was as if it is the block then I will be off the road for some time. Fingers crossed.

Thanks for all you good advice and suggestions.

Cheers

Tony