Restoration of Hull 731- Carrier, MG (Aust) Mortar Carrying

Darrin Wright · #1 29-10-13, 11:35

Ian, have some pics of the data plates & dash.
It is owned by a local Jeep collector.
I do not know anymore details of its authenticity or history.

But is a nice tidy slat Jeep.

Lynn Eades · #2 29-10-13, 15:17

Interesting. My MB 135668 is May production. This one is 11000 earlier, with a later production date.

Richard Farrant · #3 29-10-13, 21:56

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lynn Eades

Interesting. My MB 135668 is May production. This one is 11000 earlier, with a later production date.

Build date is 6th March 1942

Remember USA write their dates Month-Day-Year

Lynn Eades · #4 29-10-13, 23:09

Of course Richard. What was I thinking?

Ian Fawbert · #5 01-11-13, 01:24

Hi Darrin,

Thanks for that. Well the ARN matches the serial on the plate, so i guess they just wanted to paint it RAN- which, like your follow me, makes for a nice change! I wil have to keep an eye out for it at Corowa if it makes it along and try to have a chat to the owner! and your quite right, it is a very tidy looking slat grill MB (with the neatest stamped MV field spec/nomenclature/census plate ive ever seen!)

Cheers,
Ian.

Darrin Wright · #6 10-11-13, 11:02

Enough of Jeeps and back to the BGC.

Work has been a bit light on over the last 2 weeks due to various family events, but I have removed the floor steering cam plate and installed the clamps with the bolts and rollers that follow the steering cam plate. Re-installed the steering cam plate. Everything has a good coat of anti-seize as it is an area that collects water and prone to rust. I had new rollers machined up and have also installed new bearings into the rollers.

I flushed out an oil cooler that I had, it is a bit weathered but will do the job, with gunwash. This solution is good for dissolving paint & gunk, fortunately the oil cooler was quite clean. Cleaned the exterior with a wire brush and then attempted to paint is black with an aerosol can. I say attempted because of the large surface area of the cooler, it is very hard to get the paint onto all the surfaces.
When completed and dry, I then bolted the cooler into its brackets. At the moment there are only 2 brackets holding it in, I have mis-placed a bracket so will have to hunt that down or try and find another.

Installed what is left of my oil lines, between oil coolers and check valve. Someone used an axe to cut them and remove the brass valve. So the test fitting was to determine how much I have to repair. I have learnt that early BGC had one piece oil pipes and later BGC have a two piece pipe that aids in the installation process. I will try and repair what I have so that I maintain the one piece pipes.

I have also had stainless braided flex oil hoses made that go between the engine and the check valve, they reside on the shelf for when the engine goes in. The way the year is going that may be around Christmas.

I have run the engine some more, putting a litre of petrol through it on 2 occasions. It is running very well, I have not fiddled with the timing. The starter likes 12V DC, so I may change it over to be a 12V system. Within 1 to 2 rotations of the crank the engine has fired.

Darrin Wright · #7 18-11-13, 10:30

This weekend saw me drop the sump on the engine, remove the clutch and lock wire the flywheel bolts. Something that I forgot to do when assembling it back together. Then inspected the underside and the oil in the sump. Only very minor debris from assembly suspended in the oil. Nothing to worry about.
Placed the sump back on after re-sealing the gasket.
Taught my wife how to use the torque wrench, set it, supplied a drawing of the head torque sequence and let her go while I installed the starter motor and other minor things.

Placed the radiator into the hull and positioned it so I could measure and cut the vertical felt cushion/rub strips that rivet onto the air scoop.
Bunning's Hardware, of all places, have the bifurcated rivets used to secure the felt.
Also installed the radiator overflow/steam valve into the air scoop, measured and fabricated the metal line between it and the radiator.

I had the gear box top soaking in the parts wash tub for 2-3 months, removed it and dis-assembled it for rebuild.

During the week a friend machined up 2 new stepped bolts for the yokes that go onto the steering cam plate, now I just have to make the 1/2"dia rods that go to the base of the steering column.