C60 cwt Signals CZMk IV

[David Dunlop]

Harry.

Nice find and very handy. Similar equipment is also available at gun shops for polishing up brass casings.

David

[Gordon Yeo]

I have been working away on little bits and decided to see what the master cylinder and booster canister looked like. As Phil suggested, the booster internals where immaculate, the inside cleaned up with a scotch brit pad and there is no corrosion. Then the bonus round was the master cylinder, it has had a brass sleeve put into it.

Tony

Proper brake function is the number one priority for safety sake, for me. I may need some tutoring from you and Phil when I start to tune up the brake system. And, I'll try and remember to post more pictures for you.

Gord

[Yeo.NT]

Hey Dad

Does this mean for once you will have operational brakes on vehicle for its first road test?

[Gordon Yeo]

Neil

The truck never had an engine in it when it came. Hard to road test with that important item missing.

Dad

[Bob Carriere]

...it would make one h*** of a soap box racer......

[Ganmain Tony]

Originally Posted by Gordon Yeo

Tony

Proper brake function is the number one priority for safety sake, for me. I may need some tutoring from you and Phil when I start to tune up the brake system. And, I'll try and remember to post more pictures for you.

Gord

No worries Gordon, if I know the answer, more than happy to give it to you.

Again - superb job. It will be a terrific vehicle.

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Gordon

If you have not already read Tony's thread you might want to take a look at the posts dealing with the booster. Speaks to replacement boots.

When I bench tested my units what I was particularly looking for was leak down of the vacuum. Primary leak problem areas are the little seat for the control rod and the seal were the vacuum chamber seals to the housing.

Doing anything with this little rod has to be done carefully.(I'm looking for the manual pages on the booster to post on line.)

To get the inline check value out of the picture as a leak source use a good ball valve so you can pull the vacuum on the unit and then turn of the valve and see how long it takes for the vacuum to start dropping. When everything is perfect it will hold the vacuum over night.

When you reassemble the big piston with the leather gasket be sure to soak the seal in oil. The manual also includes adding oil to the cylinder on a regular basis. They are correct about it needing oil added with mine I include putting several ounces in each spring when I do my preseason brake check.

Another point is to use a stiff oil resistant hose to connect the booster to the manifold. Heater hose will work at first but gets soft and will actually get sucked flat. Auto air conditioning flex hose seems to work well. (10+years) It is also easy to get, either new or used.

Cheers Phil

[Gordon Yeo]

Phil

Thanks for the link to Tony's booster restoration,these units appear to very dependable. Because I never had an engine in the truck I have no idea how the booster tubing was routed and what connected it to the manifold. Could you please post several pictures of you how your truck is set up.

Gord

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Gordon

Tomorrow I'll pick up a replacement digital camera and start taking photos. (My new camera died and they are replacing it.)

Have also found the manual pages you need and will post them as well.

Cheers Phil

[Gordon Yeo]

It has been a very hasty harvest season here, too much rain and too cold. It appears some crops may be abandoned to the winter snow if the weather doesn't turn drier. That's why not much to show on the truck, work got in the way, again.

I have just about every thing cleaned up and repainted ready to instal on the frame. I thought I should get the frame in the shop and the axles mounted before we start into the real snowy weather. Using the loader and slinging the axles with chains sure makes positioning the axle and u-bolts an easy job.

Gord