Scout T5329

Ben · #1 31-07-13, 20:31

They did a very good job of the armour rivets including fitting the hinges in place. They were about the smallest rivets they use from what i saw. There are five smaller rivets on the back that hold the latch and hook in place for the rear folding armour, they weren't off the shape sizes so they made the special snaps and rivets needed while i waited. It took a couple of hours but they weren't letting it leave unless it was done right. It was refreshing to see how they worked and their attention to detail. The repaired hull looks great and is off to paint in a week.

I hope to get it back from paint and fit the rear axle by the end of August, all being well.

Photos of the guys putting the rivets in and the forge for getting them hot.

gordon · #2 31-07-13, 20:46

Paint coding for the tool types too. I can work out the snap and flush tools, but what's a Liverpool, then?

My T-36 Tractor is together with 3/16" rivets, which are enough of a pain to get right

Ben · #3 31-07-13, 20:59

A Liverpool head is the shallower dome found on the outside of the carrier armour, snap the bigger semi circular type (and the forming tool) there is also a cap head that is the same semi circular head but proportionally bigger compared to the shank size.

It was a great place. They haven't had a "rivet while you wait" job before but there was plenty to absorb so I didn't mind hanging about.

RichardT10829 · #4 31-07-13, 21:08

great stuff. brings back memories when i did mine.

tankbarrell · #5 01-08-13, 09:57

Quote:

Originally Posted by gordon

Paint coding for the tool types too. I can work out the snap and flush tools, but what's a Liverpool, then?

A Liverpool head is a slightly domed countersunk.

Ben · #6 10-08-13, 14:35

The Scout has been blasted and painted over the last couple of days. Very pleased with the results. The new armour has got the slight texture the rest of the vehicle has from age but not the unevenness that you can only get from the real deal rolled armour.
Overall I'm very pleased and i think it looks the part. Just needs a little time to bed in and let the paint go off 100%
I made four castor wheels to make life easier moving it around. I can push the hull around by myself like a shopping trolly in the workshop, they're just the job. It took two of us to load and unload onto the trailer, one to winch the other to steer.
Now the real work starts............

pics.
In the booth, still wet. just after unloading and back inside the workshop ready to have bits bolted on.

Ben

RichardT10829 · #7 10-08-13, 15:56

Nice and clean it takes seconds for the paint to get scuffed and fouled up you may want to put some sections of card over the heavy traffic area's.

She looks a million bucks though and I am green with envy... Get her painted caunter quick !!!

Ben · #8 10-08-13, 22:16

Does anyone know the bearing number for the bearing that's at the bottom of the steering column?

Thanks

Ben

Richard Farrant · #9 10-08-13, 22:21

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ben

Does anyone know the bearing number for the bearing that's at the bottom of the steering column?

Thanks

Ben

Hi Ben,
If you have the TL number or any other army number from the parts list, let me know as I have a British wartime cross reference list to give sizes and bearing makers part numbers.

ajmac · #10 31-07-13, 20:55

Very interesting photo set Ben, it's always gratifying to see traditional engineering being undertaken. Guys who do it day in and day out always make the jobs look too easy!

kevin powles · #11 31-07-13, 21:43

Hi, Nice to see it coming together, will you be getting it grit blasted before painting?, I would recommend this, don't leave it in primer for to long, what's the colour scheme you have chosen?.

Kevin, do you need any cross tube gaitors?.

Ben · #12 31-07-13, 22:03

Yes it going to a local company that have a blasting room and spray booth at the same site. Total sand blast, primer and top coat all in a couple of days. I'm keeping the original painted reg number and laquering over it to protect it the rest will be as it left the factory, khaki green no3. This way I can apply its later schemes over the top as it was done during the war.

It could be KG3 for a few years, then it's N Africa scheme then the Aus camo, all correct for the vehicle showing its progression through the war.

gordon · #13 31-07-13, 22:13

I use SET and SNAP on the T-36 but never heard of Liverpool till now.

One thing about the blasting though. If you have a word with the blasting company, they can spend a little extra time on the new plate to get it to the same surface roughness as the original, before they prime and paint.

I've seen similar jobs where they have just blasted, primed, and painted, and the flatter, shinier finish on the new metal was very obvious.

It should take just a few minutes during the blast process to match up the surface profile and might make all the difference to the end result by making the new and old metal visually the same. Many blasters will just sweep blast the new metal if you didn't ask them specially to do the little extra.

Just a thought.

Ben · #14 31-07-13, 22:26

I know Carl at the blasters pretty well, I've already sorted a couple of grades of grit to get it matched up. That being said the armour on the scout is very nice and has very little pitting, getting it all to match shouldn't be too hard........ I hope.

gordon · #15 31-07-13, 22:30

It's one of those things that is so easy to miss on the way past and a complete bu**er to fix afterwards.

It would be nice to do those colour schemes in order too, as presumably when you do the second and third variations you can just do the outside and main internal areas, and the 'original' colour will show up everywhere you just don't quite get to.