My Blitz's

David Dunlop · #1 06-07-13, 05:48

How many sheds does it take to make a village?

David

Mike Cecil · #2 06-07-13, 16:10

My wife dubbed the last one at Gunning, NSW, 'The Shed Complex'.... a 40' x 25', a 40' x 20' skillion, and a 40' x 20' shed, all adjacent and with concrete floors and with aprons front and back (to run the forklift around and work outside).

Then we moved to the USA.....

So now I have a modest 30' x 25'.

Always believed that acquiring MVs was one thing, but housing them properly to prevent deterioration while they waited in the resto line was a top priority. But that's just my view....

Mike C

Lynn Eades · #3 24-08-13, 04:35

Scott try baring the motor over now.

hrpearce · #4 24-08-13, 07:38

If you get desperate smash an old spark plug and braise an air fitting to it and try lifting the head with an air compressor.

Lynn Eades · #5 24-08-13, 08:53

Scott have you tried turning it against normal rotation?
Has the gearbox had water in it? Is it the gear box that's stopping it? What happens if you try with the clutch depressed? Will the chassis roll with the gearbox in neutral?(main shaft still turns) Will it roll with the clutch depressed (clutch is free and the gearbox is all turning)
If it turns out that the motor is seized, put a little diesel in the cylinders, with a bit of rag. Light it and let it burn for quite a while. The thermal expansion will help free it up. (probably better out side) It only needs to be a small flame.
I assume this is a 216 and has cast iron pistons?
Try a small hydraulic jack with a block of wood under the exhaust studs. be careful. you might get enough purchase by hand with no lever fitted.

Phil Waterman · #6 24-08-13, 18:47

Hi Scott

Silly question but are you sure you got all the head bolts? Your pictures shows the rocker arm assembly in place and there is one head bolt dead center under it. You should have 15 head bolts out on the bench.

If they are all out then you are probably just dealing with some really good gasket cement. I would go with the air compressor route, the screw in fitting for compression gauge can generally be fitted to an air line. Try a couple of different cylinders hopefully you will fine one that will hold pressure. If you remove the rocker are assembly all the valves should be closed.

Depending on if you find cylinders that will hold air, you may want to put a couple of the head bolts back in loosely two control how hard the head comes off.

Once you get it apart, remember the witches brew of acetone and ATF, I've had really good luck getting engines unstuck after letting them soak for a couple of weeks.

Keep us posted on what you find.

Cheers Phil

motto · #7 25-08-13, 00:28

Definitely remove the rocker gear as it seems that you may not have removed all the head bolts and it's easier see and do without the rockers. There is also the oil line to the rockers to disconnect and removal of the rockers allows the push rods to be removed. As my dad used to say,"Clear the area and let the dog see the rabbit".

Head removal will allow inspection of the bores and if they look ok (no rust) I would remove the lower flywheel pan and using a pinch bar (pry bar) carefully lever from the edge of the bell housing and the teeth of the ring gear. This can be done in either or both directions.

If there is heavy rust in the bores then - Engine removal, crankshaft removal then individual piston removal.

David

Phil Waterman · #8 25-08-13, 00:40

Hi Scott

Was the one you missed the center one? Glad you got it off anyway. I've been amazed over the years how ugly cylinders can look with rust and how much cleans up.

Now a couple of things to check take a look at http://canadianmilitarypattern.com/H...May%20Work.htm some of my pictures of working on my HUP engine, first check the valve seats for cracks.

It may be worth having the whole engine magnifluxed before you do any machine work. Still going to cost you to have it hot dipped and cleaned along with the magnifluxing but it is far better to find the cracks before you start spending money on machine work.

Concerning the pistons, remember that CMPs like yours and mine use domed pistons and domed pistons will not work on the head designed for flat topped pistons. The domed heads will work with flat topped pistons but you loose a lot of compression/power. Flattop vs Domed heads:

When I rebuilt my HUP engine the head had numerous cracks in the valve seats and as the only NOS head I could get was flat topped, when they bored the cylinders went over to flat top pistons.

Cheers Phil

PS all the photos and more are over on my website, still need to do some work on the Overhaul pages and index the page better.