Nasty surprise

[Marc van Aalderen]

I am currently rebuilding a Wilson pre-selective gearbox for a 1934 Riley and the car had a rod through the side of the block. The owner of the car had it laser welded were the company specialised in this repair work first cut a piece out of an irreparable block and laser welded that in the "good" block. First time I have heard of this technique. Not cheap but as these blocks are hard to find he had no other option.

Cheers,

[BSM]

Thanks for all of the above input once again. After demystifying the problem to be tackled the Locknstitch bits were purchased from a very helpful agent in Mackay (QLD-Aust.) and the work began. Few images attached for those interested. You were correct Gordon. After removing more paint the problem grew to approx 4inchs. Some magnaflux chemical was purchased and after a few trys (alias learning curve) I finally got a result. Turns out it helped to remove the normally rough skin surface in the vicinity of the crack. First pic is the result. This was followed with a centre punch to make it more pronounced.
The other images show a few of the steps with the last being the end result. Pin edges can be peined or done with a 2mm pin punch which was the final choice. Engine now back in as of yesterday and all being well the leak will be a thing of the past. Rod

[BSM]

Last image. Generally speaking the task was relatively straight forward once you got the hang of it. Rod

[gordon]

I'm glad you chased the ends of it before you started the repair.

That's a pretty typical crack through the thin casting section between two webs. Here in the UK it would have been caused by freezing - not sure if that is likely where you are.

Have a really good look at the other thin sections before you put all the other bits back on.

[Chuck Anderson]

Nice work Rod!

[lynx42]

Good work Rod! My 1940 Chev engine developed almost the same cracks but in two places back in 1995 on the 1st day of "Back to the Track" in Alice Springs, when the temperature dropped to Minus 8 over night and being in the centre of Australia, I did not have any anti-freeze in the cooling system.

The short term answer was a product called 'Irontite' (sic) which sealed the crack with a form of rust.

That engine is still ok and hasn't leaked yet.

Regards Rick.

[BSM]

Yes Gordon, to the diehard or experienced restorer of such things, said problems are not unusual I imagine but to some of us 'hobby' enthusiasts these mechanical setbacks do certainly add to the learning curve. Having recently completed some research on WW1 Lorry operations In Europe I am reasonably familiar about the somewhat extraordinary lengths they went to to prevent "frost damage" etc. and now one is fast coming up to steam re WW2 it seems. Your comment re the "thin" sections is noted. Just under 6mm was the guestimation for this area so one was careful not to strip the tapped holes when adding the special pins. Will certainly check as best possible before the bits are put back on. Thanks to the others for their words of support and yes Rick, after a good cooling system flush an amount of Chemi Weld will be added.
There is a bit of history re the engine/s. After securing the C60S cab chassis form the Hughes collection the engine was removed during the dismantling back to chassis. A donated 1948 Chev car engine (with smaller clutch) accepted the truck bell housing so it was temporarily installed to move the beast while the initial engine received some attention from a chap who was better skilled in matters mechanical. Long story short we were given another truck engine which has been re-engineered to take slipper bearings etc. All of the top end was dismantled and thoroughly checked however (and as we now know) the block wasn't. In amongst all of this we have had 2 complete engine/clutch/gearbox assemblies plus other bits including a cab donated to the cause which should arrive in a few weeks compliments of a generous benefactor. Another project will probably be considered in the near future. Busy times. Rod