Ford Blitz Restoration/Rebuild

Tony Wheeler · #1 10-03-13, 13:00

Quote:

Originally Posted by Private_collector

Looks like the brackets are more easily sourced than expected.

Yes, after searching the net I don't think they're worth fabricating, so there's probably not much point making drawings - which is good news for Jacques!

Closest I've found is this $30 kit which contains 3 brackets, all of which could be used with minimal modification and be undetectable as non-original:

http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb....Z5Z5Z50000019A

Mac's have the same kit:

http://macsautoparts.com/ford-pickup...0R3CHL1143645/

Jacques, I imagine these brand new brackets may change your plans a bit so I'll leave the old rusty ones where they are for the moment!

Jacques Reed · #2 11-03-13, 00:54

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tony Wheeler

Yes, after searching the net I don't think they're worth fabricating, so there's probably not much point making drawings - which is good news for Jacques!

Closest I've found is this $30 kit which contains 3 brackets, all of which could be used with minimal modification and be undetectable as non-original:

Jacques, I imagine these brand new brackets may change your plans a bit so I'll leave the old rusty ones where they are for the moment!

Hi Tony,

Thanks for your information. I did buy a Dennis Carpenter exhaust bracket set a while back but there was not enough length on the longest one to make the bracket that attaches to the fuel tank bracket as shown in the photo.
Yes, thought about the adding a length of flat bar to an existing clamp in the set but forgot about the asymmetrical design too. Good spotting. The set did give up a good old design 2" muffler clamp when I wiggled the poorly spot welded clip attached to it shown in the centre of the photo. Thank God for Dennis Carpenter's poor Chinese made stuff. Saved drilling out a spot weld!

Will check out the supplier mentioned.

When you get a chance Tony would you be kind enough to give me the dimension between the centre of the bolt hole on the clamp to the centre of the first hole where it attaches to the fuel tank bracket then I can work out the length and see if their bracket will do the job. Many thanks again for all your help and a great afternoon with the trucks.

Cheers,

Tony Wheeler · #3 11-03-13, 11:51

Hi Jacques,

Attached pics show rear tailpipe bracket dimensions as measured in situ, I'll need to remove and straighten it for complete accuracy. I'm pretty sure your Dennis Carpenter bracket will reach the first hole in the petrol tank bracket, and the hole for the rubber mount may be conveniently close to the correct location. Clearly it will need to be extended to reach the second hole, which means butt welding a piece of 1 1/4" strap to the end. The support strap will prevent any flexing at the join so it shouldn't fail. They could even be spot welded together for complete confidence.

The front tailpipe bracket is the offset clamp type, of which there are 3 in the Mac's 48-52 Pickup set. These are considerably longer and will reach the chassis rail, but will still need to be extended to bolt in the original hole. This would have to be an overlap join as there's no support strap, however it would be inside the chassis rail where it wouldn't be seen.

I think that's the solution for tailpipe brackets, clearly it's not worth trying to fabricate new ones when these items from Mac's can be easily modified. The required kits are:

Ford CMP front tailpipe bracket (48-52 Pickup set): http://macsautoparts.com/ford-pickup...0R3CHL1143645/

Ford CMP rear tailpipe bracket (35-38 Pickup set): http://macsautoparts.com/early-ford-...R3CHL1141416E/

I've ordered both sets and will test these mods when they arrive and post results here for general info.

Of course, the 48-52 Pickup set will serve for both brackets, the only difference being the offset clamp on the rear, which is hardly likely to be noticed. After all, we didn't even know there were two types until today!

Private_collector · #4 11-03-13, 12:37

article17775683-3-001.jpg article42320187-3-001.jpg article52474632-3-001.jpg article64703019-3-001.jpg

Jacques Reed · #5 12-03-13, 22:04

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tony Wheeler

Attached pics show rear tailpipe bracket dimensions as measured in situ,

I think that's the solution for tailpipe brackets, clearly it's not worth trying to fabricate new ones when these items from Mac's can be easily modified.

Hi Tony,

Again, thanks for you great help and good suggestions. In the interim I will go using one of my Dennis Carpenter brackets welded to a flat strip to make the tailpipe bracket that attaches to the fuel tank bracket. It will look reasonable and position it in the right location anyway thanks also to the dimensions you supplied.

May scratch build that bracket later when I get the urge to do a bit of metal working. Should be relatively easy as the original brackets are made of lighter gauge steel than the Dennis Carpenter repro's.

Cheers.

Private_collector · #6 13-03-13, 12:05

Yesterday I called into the local bearing shop, and asked about the BB7025 & BB7065 bearings I want for the gearbox MDG shaft. In the past, these fellows have managed to find what I need........usually. To be quite frank, I expected the standard search on computer, followed by further enquiries via phone to their suppliers, over a period of days. Sometimes it's fruitful, sometimes not. When I gave the part numbers yesterday, they checked the computer then walked away to the back room.............and came back with both bearings!
New transmission MDG bearings shielded both sides.jpg Ford BB7065=NTN6307 and Ford BB7025= NTN6209.jpg
Now, these modern bearings are shielded each side, which the guys indicated would provide better protection against oil leaking past the bearings and out along the shafts. Sounds good! Anything that keeps me from having to look at future oil stains is alright by me.

Now to the price comparison. My enquiries overseas resulted in a quote for the two bearings at $35.00 each, plus $30.00 in postage. Hmmmmmm! The quote from Gympie Bearing Service was just a little better, at $30.00................FOR THE PAIR!No postage there. They didn't have a throwout bearing in stock, but put an order in yesterday afternoon. It was ready for me to pickup after 0900hrs today. It cost $22.00. That's a grand total of $52.00 for the three bearings. On this occasion, local was considerably cheaper and quicker. When you're wrong, you're wrong! In this instance I nearly dismissed the local guys as too dear to bother with. As I say, when you're wrong, you're wrong.

I will be reassembling most of the box this weekend. Will still be waiting on new bushes, MDG shaft clip, locking wire and the rear seal, but majority of the work will get done, with several cardboard tags hanging to remind me what still needs to be done. Not heard back from Ajays in NZ yet, regarding the grease hose to throwout bearing. It is now only needed to lube the shaft for throwout assembly to move on. The bearing itself is sealed, unlike the original which was also lubed via the hose.

Tony Wheeler · #7 13-03-13, 21:33

Quote:

Originally Posted by Private_collector

these modern bearings are shielded each side, which the guys indicated would provide better protection against oil leaking past the bearings and out along the shafts.

Just out of curiosity - which is preferable, sealed or unsealed? Personally I like the idea of oil sloshing around bearings - partly for confidence in their lubrication, but also for cooling. However I imagine the seal would keep out those iron filings these gearboxes seem to generate so much of! Then again, the original bearings seem to last pretty well.

Tony Wheeler · #8 13-03-13, 21:45

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jacques Reed

May scratch build that bracket later when I get the urge to do a bit of metal working. Should be relatively easy as the original brackets are made of lighter gauge steel than the Dennis Carpenter repro's.

I'm fast coming to the same conclusion Jacques, ie. easier to scratch build than try to modify the very thick repros, which appear to be way too small in clamp diameter. I suspect you may be right about the Chinese manufacturers - they got their IDs mixed up with their ODs! Maybe the Mac's ones will be closer to original but I'm not hopeful.

Private_collector · #9 13-03-13, 22:39

Guys,

The bearing shop guys believe the modern sealed ones are best. I think this is because the sealed units are obviously pre packed with grease and that grease cannot be lost. I suppose they are saying grease is better for bearing function than oil splashed from the gears?!?!

When I get the clutch shaft bushes, i'll have them do a search for other substitutes. Will also take them to the local hydraulic shop for same thing. The have a wide range of stock bushing material. There might be a generic unit available there too.

I had a package slip in the mail yesterday, indicating two items a post office for pickup. Judging by their stated sizes, I deduce one is a six pole junction block for the wiring terminals. Theo other package is about the right size to be the new wiring loom! If that is so, it will be a very exciting day

I will know this afternoon, when I pick up those on the way home.

Grant Bowker · #10 14-03-13, 00:57

Many modern bearings are available in 3 series: open, shielded and sealed - otherwise identical.
When rebuilding my Chev transmission I chose to go the open route, either by using an open bearing or removing the seal from one bearing. I'm not qualified as an engineer to have a technical basis for this but felt that since it had taken 60+ years to develop a bit more roughness than I was willing to tolerate I didn't see a problem with using an open bearing again as I won't be needing the truck in another 60 years.
One other thing to consider is whether any of the seals on input or output shafts need a bit of oil through the bearing to help them slip on the shaft as running dry might cause wear.