Snail's pace Blitz rebuild

[Ryan]

Hi Howard,
Went past repco after work and bought 1.5 litres of dot3 brake fluid.
And currently have that tight brake cylinder soaking to free up. Plan is to use compressed air to open it up after its bath.

In other news I replaced a water pump ( hooked up to one of our farm's water tanks ) tonight after it decided enough was enough and it turned itself into a sprinkler.

[Ryan]

Hi guys,
Still working on the brakes. All disassembled now, well nearly.
What is a good source of Ford Brake cylinder rebuild kits or rubber seal kits?

Also, I have 20litres of army green acrylic lacquer which I will be using to paint the old truck. Does anyone know what sort of primer I should use under it?

[Ryan]

Cleaned the brake master cylinder today and was in the process of reassembling it when I broke the retaining internal circlip ( part no. 2174 ).
Can these be bought seperatly?

[Hanno Spoelstra]

Originally Posted by Ryan

Cleaned the brake master cylinder today and was in the process of reassembling it when I broke the retaining internal circlip ( part no. 2174 ).
Can these be bought seperatly?

This one, you mean?

I'm afraid you will have to buy the whole kit, or salvage a used one.

H.

[Ryan]

That's the one Hanno. Bugger.
But then again I do have a truck or two laying around. I'll have a look at the salvage option.
Thanks.

First morning without daylight savings today, god it's dark!

[Ryan]

Anybody have any good tips for removing sidevalve v8 heads?
All the nuts are off but I'm having trouble removing them. I guess they are stuck hard via the gaskets but I just don't wont to use too much force as to do damage to anything.
What tools are good for getting under the lugs at the front and rear of the heads? Apart from screwdrivers, chisels, crow bars.....
Is the a particular point on the head to start from with a hammer?

[Keith Webb]

I've often found it's also due to the build up of gunk on the studs. but usually once you manage to break the seal of the gaskets you should be OK. I have resorted to a careful tap under the lugs with hammer and chisel, but being cast iron they can break if you hit them too hard around the edges.

Originally Posted by Ryan

Anybody have any good tips for removing sidevalve v8 heads?
All the nuts are off but I'm having trouble removing them. I guess they are stuck hard via the gaskets but I just don't wont to use too much force as to do damage to anything.
What tools are good for getting under the lugs at the front and rear of the heads? Apart from screwdrivers, chisels, crow bars.....
Is the a particular point on the head to start from with a hammer?

[Private_collector]

Originally Posted by Ryan

Also, I have 20litres of army green acrylic lacquer which I will be using to paint the old truck. Does anyone know what sort of primer I should use under it?

Ryan, if it's acrylic, you had better use acrylic undercoat. Same brand would be ideal, if you can. If you had used an enamel or 2 pack underocat, you will have problems with adhesion or worse. You can paint enamel over acrylic, but definately NOT the other way around.

Acrylic over enamel will cause the enamel to react very badly to the solvents in the acrylic (thinner). You get a problem known as 'frying', where the enamel will wrinkle dramatically and come away from the surface it's covering. It can be mild, or it can look severe enough to appear as though you have just put a coat of paint stripper on it.

Acrylic can be satisfactorily sprayed over previous2 pack, provided certain steps were taken when the previous paint was applied. Best avoided though if at all possible.

What type of paint did you apply previously? If you are painting the surface for first time, and if bare metal, use an etch primer before you undercoat. You will achieve a far better adhesion over etch prime, compared with standard primer alone. If surfaces have already been primed, don't stress about it, it won't come tumbling off. Just that optimum grip is achieved with etch first. Incidentally, etch prime is only useful on bare metal. There is virtually nil advantage to using it as a primer unless you run out of primer and just want to finish that last little bit!

When you are applying the top coat, make sure you use thinner of the same brand as the paint you are spraying. Many people will say you can use 'general purpose' (G.P) thinner, but while this is OK you will get the very best atomisation and spraying quality with the right thinner.

Hope this helps, and if you already knew some of this, excuse me from preaching. It's not always information that people get told when they buy paint.

Love ya work

P.S: A good friend of mine, Andy Cusworth, gave me a good tip on how to store leftover paint in he tin. He said to pour a little of the thinner into the can just before you seal the lid again. Pour it gently so it stays on top, instead of mixing into the paint itself. It seals the paint underneath and the paint won't start to dry out. It works really well and was something I had not given any thought to....ever. You can teach an old dog.

[Ryan]

Cheers Tony, thank you for all that, I know bugger all about paint so every bit helps.
I haven't started painting or priming anything yet. Still rubbing back and sanding.
Today I started on the nosecone but before that I removed a sidevalve and gearbox from a Canadian F60S wreck. It's got some other bits I'll cut off too later.

[Private_collector]

Any time. Glad to help. Are you blasting the chassis, or are you stripping by another means?

[Ryan]

cheapo method. Sanding discs, wire brushes etc.