Ford Blitz Restoration/Rebuild

Ian Johns · #1 02-02-13, 14:21

Nice job. Now if I could get you to come over here I have a long list of the things you could fabricate for me.

Private_collector · #2 04-02-13, 09:07

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ian Johns

Nice job. Now if I could get you to come over here I have a long list of the things you could fabricate for me.

Sure, I would be happy to come help. It'll cost only an airfare and a CMP fuel/water tank.

Seriously, I will keep my eyes open for something similar to your tank. I like the look of a tank on a blitz. Wonder if I could slice one in half horazontally, and make it hinge open to be a campervan! Not a genuine one of course, modern equiv.

Private_collector · #3 05-02-13, 11:16

I have been looking at this vintage exhaust company in US, http://waldronexhaust.com/

They have round mufflers in 5 or 6" thickness, and any length up to 36", in aluminized steel, 16 GA for $80! Their checkout says shipping to Australia would be $25.

round short muffler.jpg
I'm asking for confirmation of shipping before I place order. I'll let you know if it is correct.

Jacques Reed · #4 06-02-13, 21:02

Hi Tony,

After saying a few months back I've never seen an original muffler for a CMP vehicle, while visiting the Army Museum at Bandiana Vic. in December I spotted this one on a Ford Ambulance. This was the only Ford CMP truck on display.

Noted the domed ends as mentioned by you in an earlier post and another item worth noteing is the position of the inlet and outlets.

As viewed from the outlet end, the outlet is at the 3 o'clock position and the inlet, is as the 6 o'clock position. This is not readily apparent in the parts manuals.

Noted too that the exhaust pipe and muffler are one unit which is shown in the parts manuals too.

Cheers,

Private_collector · #5 11-02-13, 09:44

Thanks for the photo, Jacques. I'll save that one, if it's OK with you!

I was begining to believe there were no examples of the original muffler left in captivity!

Is there good security at the Army Museum?

I have a fresh tin of black boot polish and a balaclava my mother knitted for me years ago.

I could re-live my pevious occupation as a 'cat burglar'. By the way......wanna buy a cat?

Actually, scratch that thought, the balaclava is pure wool and I couldn't stand wearing it, even to nick a genuine CMP muffler.

Private_collector · #6 11-02-13, 10:21

On Sunday I hauled the front axle assembly around to the workshop entrance and started pulling the thing apart. First I had to kill the small brown snake that was living underneath. Removed the wheels/tyres, got off the springs, and gave em a good look over for any damage.
Front springs 1.jpg Front spring leaf clamps buggered 1.jpg
Spring sets were OK, but half of all the leaf retaining clamps were either broken or missing entirely. Damn! Guess I call on the springworks for a quote. All the clamps looked to be original, but one end of each set had brackets formed around the leaves, the other end of both had ones with a bolt. Puzzling!
Front springs missing bushes.jpg
I also need two new bushes for the front of each spring set. I always make a point of keeping any parts together when I disassemble something, but I CANNOT find these bushes anywhere. I don't recall noting they were missing originally, but also don't recall removing them when I pulled the front axle and suspension off the chassis some time ago. Once again......puzzling!
Steering joint 1.jpg
I attempted removal of the steering components, but this bolt won't come out. Maintenence manual says to whack the arm it's attached to, and it'll come out, but I only read this in the evening once I had stopped work, so I have not tried this so far.
Front axle assembly 1.jpg
A good read of the manual last night, has enlightened me on how to remove the pivoting part of the axle, which I will get done next weekend....I hope. It is already obvious that some of the seals are worn out, because when I tipped the axle to one side when removing the wheels, oil came out the pivot assembly. That means another shopping list for Ross Prince, for new seals.

Also found that this vehicle had the two part pivot seal retaining assembly, and for this I am truely thankful. It should make replacing the pivot oil seals a little easier. In theory, that is.

Look at the area just left of the diff housing. You can just see the brake line 'T' connector. What I want to know is what the hell is that long flat rod sticking out from it??? It is attached by the same bolt that holds the 'T' to the diff housing, and I have NO idea what, if anything, it is there for. Any ideas? If it's not supposed to be there, I would love to remove the bloody thing, as it poses a safety hazard to my shins and ankles.

Jacques Reed · #7 11-02-13, 22:42

Quote:

Originally Posted by Private_collector

Look at the area just left of the diff housing. You can just see the brake line 'T' connector. What I want to know is what the hell is that long flat rod sticking out from it??? It is attached by the same bolt that holds the 'T' to the diff housing, and I have NO idea what, if anything, it is there for. Any ideas? If it's not supposed to be there, I would love to remove the bloody thing, as it poses a safety hazard to my shins and ankles.

Tony,

I'd say it is just a add-on by someone to try to keep the steering ends from turning.

Maybe the diff was off a home made crane setup using two front ends as was sometimes done. That rod would help to keep the wheels in the straight ahead position if the owner found he didn't want to look after two steering wheels while using the crane.

Turf it- it's not required or original!

Cheers,

Jacques Reed · #8 11-02-13, 21:25

Quote:

Originally Posted by Private_collector

Thanks for the photo, Jacques. I'll save that one, if it's OK with you!

No problems Tony, One picture worth a thousand words when dealing with suppliers.

Have included another one for you here of the front end of the muffler showing the 6 o'clock position of the inlet.

Noted in your later post removal of steering tie rod end bolt.
Manual is right and it does work. A good whack on the side of the part holding the tapered pin should remove it.

All tapered parts respond to this method including car ball joints. Whacking the threaded end, even if protected, usually accomplishes nothing.

Cheers,

Ian Johns · #9 20-02-13, 06:24

Quote:

Originally Posted by Private_collector

Sure, I would be happy to come help. It'll cost only an airfare and a CMP fuel/water tank.

Seriously, I will keep my eyes open for something similar to your tank. I like the look of a tank on a blitz. Wonder if I could slice one in half horazontally, and make it hinge open to be a campervan! Not a genuine one of course, modern equiv.

If you find the 350 gallon tank it will give you a little more room to stretch out.

Private_collector · #10 04-02-13, 09:00

Rear springs painted 1.jpg
Painted springs, the remaining 2 hangers, and inspection light body.
New engine mounts.jpg
Placed the new engine mounts and installed the two earth straps. I had to do something, while waiting for paint on springs to dry.
Rear springs back on 1.jpg Rear springs back on 2.jpg
Last thing for the day was re-attaching the rear spring hangers, pivot, springs, and then finally....the rear axle. That was a total cow of a job for one person. That engine hoist just paid for itself! I was forced to attach a ratchet strap to the spring sets, and pull them together so the spring centre bolts would line up with the axle. After half an hour of adjustment, I discovered the bolt head on passenger side was ever so slightly bigger than the matching recess on the axle, so had to undo all my work and get the axle far enough away to use grinder to round the bolt head a little. That chassis sure does sit high now. I'm very pleased that the chassis sits level at rear.

I will need a new set of U bolts. The one's I have are too long for the springs that don't have overriders adding to the height. We have a spring-works in town. The engineering works could thread further down the bolts and cut off the extra, if spring-works can't assist.

Next, I will remove front springs from the axle, and get them ready for blasting. I'm not comfortable with the rear end being able to roll forward/back and front sitting on just the stand. I don't trust my welding, and want to be able to attach the trailer axle to front. That will eliminate the possibility of causing a catastrophy by chassis falling.

Previous owner of the truck didn't have shock absorbers on the rear. Twit! I have em, and will start working on cleaning them up for installation.

A friend of mine has been trying to find Speedway brand tyres for one of his vehicles. He was told they were good tyres, but can't find anyone who stocks them. Is anybody aware where he can buy those tyres, please?