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  #1  
Old 04-09-12, 06:18
Harry Moon Harry Moon is offline
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Default

The cause is not loose bolts but the lack of the spacer ring on the output shaft. I'll look up the thread and pictures from several years back on this forum. It's a ring made of flat steel 3/8ths wide wrapped around the shaft and butt welded. It keeps the output flange from being drawn up to tight against the transmission. the ring is NOT in the parts book and the military output flange is 3/8ths shorter than a civvy one.
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Old 04-09-12, 06:52
Harry Moon Harry Moon is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harry Moon View Post
The cause is not loose bolts but the lack of the spacer ring on the output shaft. I'll look up the thread and pictures from several years back on this forum. It's a ring made of flat steel 3/8ths wide wrapped around the shaft and butt welded. It keeps the output flange from being drawn up to tight against the transmission. the ring is NOT in the parts book and the military output flange is 3/8ths shorter than a civvy one.
http://www.mapleleafup.net/forums/sh...?t=8976&page=4
Look up post 116(?) on this thread Gary for the transmission cause/fix
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  #3  
Old 16-09-12, 00:49
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gary_bath_jr gary_bath_jr is offline
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Default T-Case

Hey Harry

Thanks for that info. Is there a trick to geting the cover of the transfer case off? I have tried to take the smalled peice off the cover and the cover but it will not budge around the spot where that flange is, (check the pics of the transfer case in previous posts).

Gary
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  #4  
Old 16-09-12, 07:15
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gary_bath_jr gary_bath_jr is offline
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Default Pics

I went out and took some pictures of the part I am talking about.

Gary
Attached Images
File Type: jpg DSC_0003.jpg (28.9 KB, 20 views)
File Type: jpg DSC_0004.jpg (28.4 KB, 21 views)
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  #5  
Old 18-09-12, 06:52
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gary_bath_jr gary_bath_jr is offline
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Default T-Case

Well I figured it out, Brute force and ignorance works everytime. I had to use a small sledgehammer but the cover finally came off. The great news is that all the gears and bearings look good, all I need to get is new seals and gaskets.

Gary
Attached Images
File Type: jpg DSC_0001.jpg (66.0 KB, 12 views)
File Type: jpg DSC_0002.jpg (37.0 KB, 12 views)
File Type: jpg DSC_0003.jpg (34.2 KB, 13 views)
File Type: jpg DSC_0004.jpg (28.6 KB, 13 views)
File Type: jpg DSC_0005.jpg (34.9 KB, 13 views)
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  #6  
Old 18-09-12, 06:57
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gary_bath_jr gary_bath_jr is offline
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Default More Pics

More pictures of the t-case.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg DSC_0006.jpg (33.2 KB, 8 views)
File Type: jpg DSC_0007.jpg (27.9 KB, 8 views)
File Type: jpg DSC_0008.jpg (36.1 KB, 8 views)
File Type: jpg DSC_0009.jpg (37.3 KB, 7 views)
File Type: jpg DSC_0010.jpg (36.7 KB, 7 views)
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  #7  
Old 19-09-12, 03:52
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
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Default Carefull measurements.....

HI Gary

If you take ID and OD measurments to an industrial bearing shop all the parts....bearings and races are still available.... you may need to invest in some speedy sleeves to cover wear grooves in the yoke's shaft surface......

....about $700 worth for a full set for a 2 speed T-case.

Carefull with the metal shims....cut new paper shims with a very light coating of silicone....... you may need another spare T-case for extra shims...... gears have to be preloaded just right.... final results you should be able to rotate the yokes by hand... too loose it will rattle..... any tighter will be too much.... MB-C2 is a good guide for the set up.....

I pre-greased all bearings with a light coating of moly lub during assembly....

I also used synthetic lub...... nice but as a tendency to leak.... like a CMP was designed to do .......
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