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  #1  
Old 01-09-12, 15:46
Phil Waterman Phil Waterman is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Temple, New Hampshire, USA
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Default Brake Booster Boot

Hi Tony

Great how to substitute for a hard part to find. The booster boots are almost always shot.

Another suitable replacement that I have used following a similar process is off-road shock absorber boots. Which are easy to find seem to last well. The OD of the bellows on the ones I found allowed the retaining ring to slipped over and the mounting holes punched.

Here are a couple of photos.


You will note that the boot has more rings than the original



Below are pictures of the shock boot off.

Cheers Phil
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`41 C60L Pattern 12
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  #2  
Old 01-09-12, 16:30
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Private_collector Private_collector is offline
Tony Baker
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Wide Bay, QLD, Australia.
Posts: 1,819
Default Booster boots

Hey Phil!

Mine has too many rings as well, but i'm OK with that. Especially if it gets me out of the proverbial!

Good fun too

I have several brake boosters, and it has taken all of em to donate something that the other ones had which was stuffed. The best one was found by a friend of mine & cost me $20. While it was 'sound', it had suffered from poor storage which had caused some corrosion in the valve shaft. Another one I cut a section out of both ends of the shaft to see/understand what was happening inside. This provided far more details than reading the manual!!!

I see your booster has the breather attached to the unit. Mine has the breather remote on chassis. Did you just put yours onto the booster body for testing purposes???
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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still)
Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder)
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  #3  
Old 02-09-12, 11:31
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Private_collector Private_collector is offline
Tony Baker
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Wide Bay, QLD, Australia.
Posts: 1,819
Default Very productive day.

Driver side tank painted 3.jpg Driver side tank painted 2.jpg
The second fuel tank is now painted. I'll put the stencils on some time during the week, as always, weather permitting. I nearly put off todays painting due to high wind speed.
Vac Booster during 1.jpg
Remember I was intending to send the vac booster shaft & valve assembly for restoration down south? I made a thorough check of that part today and found the valves were in PERFECT condition. No perishing to the rubber seals and no corrosion to the inside of the tube or valve shaft. All it needed was a little cleaning! I did instal a new set of seals on the plunger itself. Had them soaking in oil O/N.
Vac Booster finished 1.jpg
After I painted the front cover and linkage fork, I reassembled the entire unit and connected it to the workshop vacuum (appropriate!). It works excellently and smoothly. I found when I held the fork end up and actioned the valves as if braking, it could lift its own weight and another 2-3kg besides (added some other parts and tried again). If fact, when trying to forcefully restrain the plunger from moving, I found I could NOT stop the action! That'll do me
Finished parts 1.jpg
Booster now added to the 'clean' pile of parts.
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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still)
Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder)

Last edited by Private_collector; 02-09-12 at 11:57.
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  #4  
Old 02-09-12, 11:42
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Private_collector Private_collector is offline
Tony Baker
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Wide Bay, QLD, Australia.
Posts: 1,819
Default Vac booster - fiddly bits

Vac Booster valve mechanism 1.jpg
There are actually two more things needed to finish the vacuum booster. I broke the retaining clip that locks the valve action mechanism, and will have to make a new one.
Vac Booster adjustment end.jpg
Also, there should be a tiny little rubber boot here, to stop dirt getting into the valve shaft. I have NEVER seen one of these, even a rotten one. I have seen some attempts to make do with a crude canvas replacement, but i'm no fan of that, so i'll head off to the local toy shop during the week and see what thay have for R/C vehicles that can be used here.
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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still)
Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder)
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  #5  
Old 02-09-12, 23:27
Phil Waterman Phil Waterman is offline
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Location: Temple, New Hampshire, USA
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Default Fiddly Bits

Hi Tony

Have you check with your friendly motorcycle shop for a throttle or brake cable boot? Mine came from the brake cable of a 1978 Yamaha 125 Trail bike if I remember correctly. Boot is about 2" long but can be cut down.

As for the used the little tiny hair pin style carburetor linkage clips.

Cheers Phil
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`41 C60L Pattern 12
`42 C60S Radio Pattern 13
`45 HUP
http://canadianmilitarypattern.com/
New e-mail Philip@canadianmilitarypattern.com
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  #6  
Old 03-09-12, 11:20
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Tony Baker
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Wide Bay, QLD, Australia.
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Default cycle cable boot

Phil, That's a grand idea!

I will look into that tomorrow.

Thanks,
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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still)
Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder)
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  #7  
Old 03-09-12, 12:36
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Howard Howard is offline
"Sid and Errol's Dad"
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Ganmain, Australia
Posts: 1,438
Smile Boot

Tony, check your PM's
HH
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F15 #12
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  #8  
Old 03-09-12, 13:48
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Tony Baker
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Wide Bay, QLD, Australia.
Posts: 1,819
Default MacsAuto order

Just completed a 'birthday' order for MacsAuto parts, including the battery hold down thingy. Mostly brake stuff. Those bits will be going onto the chassis ASAP, that is once I get it back and paint it.

I love the current exchange rate!

It is looking quite possible that I may do the blasting myself, in the engineering co. booth. I can do that on a Saturday when they don't normally use the blasting booth.

Won't be this weekend. It's the Gympie swap meet. That must come first!!!!
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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still)
Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder)

Last edited by Private_collector; 04-09-12 at 22:29.
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