|
|
|
|
#2
30-06-12, 00:21
|
|||
|
|||
Can I ask a silly question?
Hi Austin
How much off roading do you plan to do with the truck? My reason for asking is that the front ends can be assembled with out the inner drive shaft and any of the ball joint parts. All you need to carry the load of the front wheels is the short outer shafts. This has been my fall back plan if I ever break an inner shaft or have problems with the ball drive shafts. This practice of neutering the front ends was fairly common, to the point that some of the US Chevy 1 1/2 ton manuals have a special section for doing it. See http://canadianmilitarypattern.com/T...%20Excerpt.htm on my web site. If you go this route you really need to remove the same parts on both sides. Don't go shifting the transfer case in to 4 wheel drive while moving when you have done this it makes a horrible noise as the front shaft is not moving. However you can still use the low gear range if you come to a complete stop. Be careful though using low range with just the rear wheels driving lots of torque. Make this as a suggestion so you can get your truck moving while you hunt for parts or a spare axle. I drove my HUP this way for a couple of years when I first had it, little quieter and little better gas mileage. Cheers Phil
__________________
Phil Waterman `41 C60L Pattern 12 `42 C60S Radio Pattern 13 `45 HUP http://canadianmilitarypattern.com/ New e-mail Philip@canadianmilitarypattern.com 
|
|
#3
30-06-12, 02:13
|
|||
|
|||
|
Almost all the same ratio...
Hi Austin
There are two sizes of axles..... one for the 15 cwt and one for the larger 60 cwt. First we need to identify the size of your axle...... on top of the steering knuckle..... the small axle has four bolts..... the larger has 6 bolts... see Picture attached... any CMP axle withthat 4 bolt size will have the saem ration. In addition...on top of the centre gear cluster.... there should be a ratio stamped into the cast iron body..... you may need to clean the area with a stiff wire brush and wet down with light oil to be able to read it. Bob C
__________________
Bob Carriere....B.T.B C15a Cab 11 Hammond, Ontario Canada
|
|
#5
30-06-12, 05:10
|
|||
|
|||
|
than any similar CMP axle will have same ratio...
HI Austin
Remember the outward plange on each side of the axle.... once unbolted a Chev steeerign knuckle or Ford steering knuckle is the same and will bolt in place. IF $$$ is a concern....forget fixing the R-Zeppa and get a regular CMP axle and get mobile. Bob
__________________
Bob Carriere....B.T.B C15a Cab 11 Hammond, Ontario Canada
|
|
#7
04-07-12, 19:58
|
||||
|
||||
|
Quote:
Whether or not those ones are available, you'll definitely have to source a complete CV joint assembly. Even if you managed to find a new Rzeppa cage and balls they'd be no good to you. The tolerance between the cage and the outer joint is very tight, the slightest damage to either surface will cause them to bind, which is what caused this failure in the first place. Since the cage is damaged, the outer joint is obviously damaged too. You wouldn't even be able to fit a new cage in there, much less get it to move freely. That was the problem with my own Rzeppa joint, and that cage was only lightly scuffed in one spot. As the Ford manual says about Rzeppa joints: "These joints are built to a high degree of precision, and should be treated and serviced with the same care as ball bearings. Freedom from grit or other foreign matter, as well as proper lubrication are very important." In other words, your whole CV joint is scrap. You'll need to find another one, or at least another front end to pull one out of. They're easy enough to find over here, but of course shipping cost would be prohibitive. As I say, I'd be pretty confident you could use a Chev one, provided it's 4 7/8" of course.
__________________
One of the original Australian CMP hunters.
|
|
#8
04-07-12, 21:02
|
||||
|
||||
|
Quote:
The heavy axle had 6" steering ends, and 43 tooth crown wheel for use with 20" wheels. The light axle had 4 7/8" steering ends, and 39 tooth crown wheel for use with 16" wheels. Both diffs had the same 6 tooth pinion, and the crown wheels are interchangeable. Your's is the light axle, which means it will have 6/39 diffs. If you can only find a heavy axle you can still use it, but you'll have to split the diff housing and swap the crown wheel. It's probably best to swap the pinion as well, because the teeth mate with the crown wheel through years of wear. You may even have to re-shim it in the new diff housing. It's a lot of extra work, when all you really need is to replace one CV joint. And within a week of doing all this extra work, the correct part will suddenly turn up! 
__________________
One of the original Australian CMP hunters.
|
|
#9
07-07-12, 18:27
|
|||
|
|||
|
the axles arent being used, in fact they are just sitting in his bush but he seems to think he will need them for parts someday. not sure why he thinks that since the other axles he has that are under a vehicle arent being used either. i might try and bug him about them again but i doubt ill make it very far. does it have to be an rzeppa that i put back in or will the shaft splines from other types match up?
|
|
#10
08-07-12, 05:55
|
||||
|
||||
|
Where are you located? After all, Canada is a big place! I have a spare Ford front axle that's not the RZeppa kind but shipping might be pretty high. I also see that Dave Shindel needs a crown and pinion for one so maybe you two could get together on it.
__________________
1940 Cab 11 C8 Wireless with 1A2 box & 11 set 1940 Cab 11 C8 cab and chassis 1940 Cab 11 C15 with 2A1 & Motley mount & Lewis gun 1940 Cab 11 F15A w/ Chev rear ends 1941 Cab 12 F15A 1942-44 Cab 13 F15A x 5 1942 cab 13 F15A with 2B1 box 1943 cab 13 F15A with 2H1 box 1943 Cab 13 C8A HUP 1944 Cab 13 C15A with 2C1 box 1943 Cletrac M2 High Speed Tractor MkII Bren gun carrier chassis x 2 Last edited by cletrac (RIP); 08-07-12 at 06:03.
|
|
#11
08-07-12, 14:48
|
||||
|
||||
|
Quote:
__________________
One of the original Australian CMP hunters.
|
 |
|
|
Hybrid Mode
