12 volt condensor

Dave Page · #1 22-06-12, 20:24

Hi Richard,
at risk of hijacking this thread - I was not aware of the specific use of hardened seats, and was talking in general. I should also have added that if you drive your old machine at period speeds for short runs then there should not be a problem.
Cheers,
Dave

Lynn Eades · #2 23-06-12, 00:59

Back to the condensor.
Tony Generally speaking the condensor is matched to the coil. If the condenser is over capacity or under capacity it results in arcing at the points (contact set) and a transfer of material (platinum) to one or the other side, resulting in a short life to points. (btw, vented points are a better option if available)
If the condensor is u/s.(i.e. completely stuffed) it will often leave the points burned black.If it still goes, it won't for long. They should be a clean grey. (the only other possibility here is oil getting into the points)
You will probably notice that 6 volt condensors are bigger than 12 volt condensors. (this might be an age/ construction thing, all the same, its a good guide)
Sometimes you can buy one with the microfarad value stamped into the body, and in some cases they were available in different values for the same application.
Having converted to 12 volt you should change the condensor for one made for a 12 volt application. Any one you can get in the hole, and hook the wire up will do. All you need is the thing clamped or screwed to the distributor body, and the wire hooked up to the feed to the points. You will notice that the early jappers had them on the outside of the dizzy. Keep an eye on the points, and try a different condensor if they are tranfering metal faster than they should. The local auto electrician might be able to help regarding capacity up or down. If your coil came from a certain type of vehicle, a condensor of the same capacity, as that vehicles condensor, will do the trick.
I vaguely recall seeing in a wartime training pamphlet, teaching the drivers to make a tempory condensor using a bean can and paper. Maybe someone can recall.
Anyhoo you have it sorted. My guess, from your description, fuel.
Hopefully this has filled a few knowledge gaps, for some of the would be mecanical lurkers out there.

motto · #3 23-06-12, 01:31

To change tack a little bit Tony there is 'Another Way' and that is to install electronic ignition which I would thoroughly recommend to anybody. I've installed it on my '43 Dodge 6x6 1-1/2 ton and am very happy with it. No more condenser or points problems forever. Set and forget.

David

Little Jo · #4 23-06-12, 01:57

Quote:

Originally Posted by motto

To change tack a little bit Tony there is 'Another Way' and that is to install electronic ignition which I would thoroughly recommend to anybody. I've installed it on my '43 Dodge 6x6 1-1/2 ton and am very happy with it. No more condenser or points problems forever. Set and forget.

David

Hi David

My younger brother suggested that to me as well. I think that is something to think about. I Know there are a lot of restorers who would not agree as they would like to see everything original, but technology has marched on and I guess we have to move with the times when all else fails.

Cheers

Tony

Mike K · #5 23-06-12, 06:47

Tony

For most automotive applications , you want a value of around .25 uf for the ignition capacitor .

1 uf = 10 to the power of negative 6 ... which is one millionth of a farad

Michael Faraday had something to do with it I think

Bob Estabrooks · #6 25-06-12, 05:06

This thread went into several dierctions. After 15 plus letters I had a problem determining whats the prob .

Consider this. 6 V starter , 12 battery. Crank like hell and start engine. Idles.
Under load misses. I would suggest the battery is not supplying sufficent power to energise the Ing. system under load. Check the charging system. Bob

Little Jo · #7 25-06-12, 09:44

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bob Estabrooks

This thread went into several dierctions. After 15 plus letters I had a problem determining whats the prob .

Consider this. 6 V starter , 12 battery. Crank like hell and start engine. Idles.
Under load misses. I would suggest the battery is not supplying sufficent power to energise the Ing. system under load. Check the charging system. Bob

Hi Bob

After all was checked, the culprit turned out to be the Condenser, problem solved and I am a happy chappie.

Cheers

Tony

Little Jo · #8 23-06-12, 01:42

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lynn Eades

Back to the condensor.
Tony Generally speaking the condensor is matched to the coil. If the condenser is over capacity or under capacity it results in arcing at the points (contact set) and a transfer of material (platinum) to one or the other side, resulting in a short life to points. (btw, vented points are a better option if available)
If the condensor is u/s.(i.e. completely stuffed) it will often leave the points burned black.If it still goes, it won't for long. They should be a clean grey. (the only other possibility here is oil getting into the points)
You will probably notice that 6 volt condensors are bigger than 12 volt condensors. (this might be an age/ construction thing, all the same, its a good guide)
Sometimes you can buy one with the microfarad value stamped into the body, and in some cases they were available in different values for the same application.
Having converted to 12 volt you should change the condensor for one made for a 12 volt application. Any one you can get in the hole, and hook the wire up will do. All you need is the thing clamped or screwed to the distributor body, and the wire hooked up to the feed to the points. You will notice that the early jappers had them on the outside of the dizzy. Keep an eye on the points, and try a different condensor if they are tranfering metal faster than they should. The local auto electrician might be able to help regarding capacity up or down. If your coil came from a certain type of vehicle, a condensor of the same capacity, as that vehicles condensor, will do the trick.
I vaguely recall seeing in a wartime training pamphlet, teaching the drivers to make a tempory condensor using a bean can and paper. Maybe someone can recall.
Anyhoo you have it sorted. My guess, from your description, fuel.
Hopefully this has filled a few knowledge gaps, for some of the would be mecanical lurkers out there.

Hi Lynn

The condensor I replaced was about the same diameter as the old one I removed and accoding to the guy at the auto shop would match the new 12 Volt Bosch Coil I installed. Having rechecked everything again all I can say the problem is gone and my Jeep now has plenty of grunt. Tomorrow I am taking her out on a long club run so fingers crossed this will be a good test run.

Thanks to all you MLU guys for the very interesting advice and suggestions. It is fantastic for a novice like me to have so much information to learn and remember. I really do appreciate it. You guys in MLU are so supportive and have always been there to assist and help me and I guess this is why I enjoy my new found, and very addictive hobby.

1st Photo is the old Condensor
2nd Photo is the new installed Condensor.

Cheers

Tony