Ford Blitz Restoration/Rebuild

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Tony

Once he has perfecting the fit of the Rifle Holders would you please remeasure and send me the measurements so I can correct the drawing?

How did you machine your door adjustment shim wedges?

When you shimmed your windshield post did it help the fit of the windshield frame?

Great work,

Cheers Phil

[Private_collector]

Phil,

Yes, I will send you the finished dimensions once I get the blocks. The o/d will remain the same, i/d length will be altered with corresponding change to wall thickness at the curved part and possibly all over if he decides to make it all the same thickness, which not doubt may be done. If so, it will be done very well!

Re Door Shims
The shims for door hinge adjusting were a very simple item, made from a thin strip of 30mm x 1.6mm aluminium flat bar. By pure luck, my local hardware (35min away) had a range of these for hobby use.

Manufacture was as follows:

Place the hinge over the aluminium and draw around the outside of hinge, also marking hole locations. Centre punch & drill the two holes, then shape to desired size. I used a grinder with cutting wheel on. I was too lazy to change to a grinder wheel for a few seconds worth of grinding, it really was that quick. Once shaped, I then used the cutting wheel to cut in from the long edge twice for each hole. That is all there is to it! Very simple but VERY effective. There is no way I could have achieved the desired result without the shims, and at 1.6mm each, they were not going to make a gross change that looks out of place. One little tip on the shim finish, etch prime each side and paint the edges that may be seen. I brushed the green along all edges regardless of being visual or not.

Re Packing to Windscreen support frame ends.

I found the single packing I used on each end of the windscreen support frame totally eliminated the possibility of touching door, with the most desired side-efffect of bringing the individual window frame opening to within 1mm out of square! This is the case with my truck, but I would expect the tolerences to be greatly variable between vehicles. My window on drivers side will have an even 5mm (roughly 3/16) clearance on both sides with the pack insitu. Eack piece is a 50mm x 3mm flat bar, once again aluminium, making it easy to shape as needed. You would notice two of the corners are cut at 45%, this is because the taper of cab frame was just a 'bees dick' narrower than the aluminium strip at the very top. When the whole thing is assembled, the aluminium should not be visible in any way. Regardless, I painted the edges prior to finall permanent assembly.

Hope this helps.



I will discover what the passenger side has in store for me this weekend.

[Private_collector]

rifle cups 2.jpg rifle cups 5.jpg rifle cups 4.jpg rifle cups 1.jpg
The wooden cups that hold the rifle butt in place are finally in my hands. The
No. 1 Lee Enfield fits perfectly, but No. 5 'Jungle Carbine' is slightly too wide to take the metal loop that carry strap is attached to.
rifle cups 3.jpg
The Gentleman who made these (Tony) will make more, at $25 AUD each. They would be virtually identical to these, allowing for individual differences between grain of timber of course. If interested, let me know. He does have a computer at home but only his Wife uses this and she is away until end of this month. Beyond that date it would be easy to gain permission to email the Wife and have her pass information or orders to Tony.

[cliff]

that looks good Tony but you got to paint them army green mate

Just goes to show just what talented folk live in country towns. You know people like you, me, Lloyd (#12FGT) and the fellow that made those butt holders along with several hundred more plus.

[Private_collector]

Cliff,

No, I won't paint these yet.

'Yet' may be subject to change..........or permanent.

I will attach them as is, for now. Too much work went into getting them looking nice. Seriously I can't bring myself to cover with paint!

[cliff]

The trouble with our climate Tony is eventually they will split as the heat dries them out. So no matter how good they look now they will wear quick. Soaking them in a good timber preservative as used on your rifle butt will keep them looking better longer.

But it is your truck Tony and if you wanna paint it any color but green you may do so. I was pulling your chain in a gentle way as I too think they are too good to paint....just yet anyway!

[Private_collector]

Cliff,

Thats cool! Don't worry.

They are already sealed with a matt clear. That should protect OK.

I also suspect (but forgot to ask) that they are already seasoned / dried.

[Bob Carriere]

.... have you considered using them as candy dishes....?

You have to see a NOS model.... roughly made of readily available Canadian hard wood.... maple...ash.....even suspect pine..... and quickly painted OD. These were made by many local wood shops under contract and the quality, finish, manufacturing techiques and dimensions would vary greatly

I have seen 60 year old ++ examples in the back of cabs that were still in one piece.....dirty...moldy but still intact. I beleive a lot has to do with the orientation of the growth rings and slow tight growth ( higher quality wood) versus quick thick growth rings of poorer quality wood.

By the way what kind of exotic wood did he use....?

Bob

[Hanno Spoelstra]

Originally Posted by cliff

but it is your truck Tony and if you wanna paint it any color but green you may do so. I was pulling your chain in a gentle way as I too think they are too good to paint....just yet anyway!

You will see they match perfectly to the wooden dash and door cappings Tony will eventually fit ...

[Keith Webb]

Originally Posted by Hanno Spoelstra

You will see they match perfectly to the wooden dash and door cappings Tony will eventually fit ...

Perhaps Tony can wear clogs to drive it too.