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  #1  
Old 20-02-12, 03:25
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
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Default Carbs......

I would trust "CarbKing" as he has been in the business for a long time.

The W-1 is not a bad carburator and it is the original for the 216....... it might not have sufficient CFM for a high reving 235 or 261 but would still run the engine quite well.

I ran a totally rebuilt Rochester "B" and it ran well........ I changed because of th tendency to flow raw gasoline off the top of the carburator at anything over 25 to 30 degrees of hill climb........ apparently the W -1 did not have that nasty habit...... the Rochester B was after all intended for civilian application. For ther ecord my Roch. B did not leak form the top casket cover but leaked from some undetected factory vent hole..... which is part of its design.

I am now running a Carter YF which is flawless ( suggested by Carb King) and do intend to try on a rebuilt Zenith 28 228 formerly used on the GMC 270 cu. in C60x engine.


Bob
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  #2  
Old 17-03-12, 00:33
Lynn Eades Lynn Eades is offline
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Default Scott

Dont forget to polarise your field coil magnets before you turn on the key.
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  #3  
Old 17-03-12, 00:35
Phil Waterman Phil Waterman is offline
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Default CMP Parts Book Shows Both Types

Hi Scott

Just took a quick look at both the HUP and 3 Ton Chevy CMP parts books and they both show three different types of generator one with a tail bushing, a front ball bearing and no air filter. The next has a tail bushing, a front ball bearing and air filter. The last showing tail ball bearing, a front ball bearing and air filter.

If you want I can post the parts diagram and the detail pages if you don't have them.

I just rebuilt the generator for my HUP which has ball bearings at both ends but strangely it doesn't have the air cleaner. Bearings were good so I cleaned and re-lubricated them and reinstalled. Only other work was new brushes and brush springs. It is now back on the engine running on the test stand.

Cheers Phil
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  #4  
Old 17-03-12, 07:18
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Mike K Mike K is offline
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott Hamilton View Post
Yes please Phil, if you could post those diagrams.

I do have parts and maintenance manuals which only have the versions with the bushing at the rear of the generator and without the air filter.

How do I go about polarising the magnets ? - as there is no mention of magnets in the parts description, unless you mean the generator pole shoe that the coil is fitted around?
Scott

The field coils are wound around a hunk of cast iron . The iron needs an amount of residual magnetism in order for the generator to " start up" , once it gets going . This magnetism is polarised in either of two ways . If you have a NEG ground system, the coils need to be polarised for a NEG ground .

You normally just touch a wire from the battery HOT SIDE to the field coil terminal , this is enough to polarise the coils

MIKE
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  #5  
Old 17-03-12, 14:26
Phil Waterman Phil Waterman is offline
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Default Generator Part Pages

Hi Scott

Below is the parts break out view, and the link to the parts pages that go with it. Hope this helps.

My experience is that the generators have to energized as Mike describes, the manual also describes a number of test for the generator including a motor test. I have found that the energizing step should be the last and if the generator sits around not connected for a long time may have to be repeated. I've ended up doing it after the generator is installed on the engine and fails to charge when the is running.



http://canadianmilitarypattern.com/M...0Up%20Link.htm This page is where I've started storing photos I want to up load at larger size or higher resolution to present on MLU. If the size is a problem for your browser or web connection please let me know.

Cheers Phil
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  #6  
Old 18-03-12, 10:04
Lynn Eades Lynn Eades is offline
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Default Scott

It would probably be o.k., But.....
It would be better to polarize a generator every time one is fitted to a vehicle.
This way it has to be right.
If it is not done, and is wrong,(50%chance) what happens is that when the engine stops the cut out contacts in the regulator stay closed.The current from the battery back feeds to the geny which tries to "motor". The geny cannot motor, being held by the fan belt. The net result is that the geny burns out, along with the cut contacts, essentially wrecking the regulator.
For the sake of connecting the live terminal of the battery with a wire, and making it spark on the small terminal (field terminal) of the fitted geny, it saves all the grief.
This is the case when your vehicle is earthed either positive or negative.
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Carrier Armoured O.P. No1 Mk3 W. T84991
Carrier Bren No2.Mk.I. NewZealand Railways. NZR.6.
Dodge WC55. 37mm Gun Motor Carriage M6
Jeep Mb #135668
So many questions....
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  #7  
Old 18-03-12, 15:06
Phil Waterman Phil Waterman is offline
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Default Agree with Lynn on polarizing

Hi Scott

I agree with Lynn on polarizing the generator after it is installed on the truck. I've found that the that doing it before it is installed doesn't always work or hold the field. Lynn is also correct about the very brief contact necessary to accomplish the polarizing just a quick spark.

The caution about making sure that the regulator is functioning correctly when the engine is turned off, read the section in the manual and be sure that the cut out points in the regulator are actually opening.

Which manual are you working from?

Cheers Phil
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  #8  
Old 04-04-12, 12:26
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Ryan Ryan is offline
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Default your mums passing

May she rest in peace Scott. All the best to you and your family.
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