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#1
05-01-12, 20:43
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The battery cables should be about as big around as your little finger. What's that in metric?
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1940 Cab 11 C8 Wireless with 1A2 box & 11 set 1940 Cab 11 C8 cab and chassis 1940 Cab 11 C15 with 2A1 & Motley mount & Lewis gun 1940 Cab 11 F15A w/ Chev rear ends 1941 Cab 12 F15A 1942-44 Cab 13 F15A x 5 1942 cab 13 F15A with 2B1 box 1943 cab 13 F15A with 2H1 box 1943 Cab 13 C8A HUP 1944 Cab 13 C15A with 2C1 box 1943 Cletrac M2 High Speed Tractor MkII Bren gun carrier chassis x 2 
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#2
05-01-12, 21:08
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Thanks chaps, She is indeed still 6 Volt.
Little finger size is maybe a bit bigger than what she has, depending on who's pinky you are looking at 
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#3
06-01-12, 00:31
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Hi Lauren,run a new heavy battery cable from the earth end of the battery earth chassis mount,to your bell housing near as possible to the starter motor.
I had advice from Alex Blair on this site,and it works a treat!!,just like 12v. Do that first before anything else as that will eliminate any earthing problem. My F30 was having the same trouble as you are having and this fixed it.
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kenney
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#4
06-01-12, 02:09
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Buying cable
If you can, buy cable with lots of fine strands, rather than a cable with a few heavy strands. Welding cable is good because it employs many fine strands. It remains flexible, and with its good cross section, a great current conducter.
I suggest you follow closely what Kenny has suggested. It is well known that many Jeeps(amongst others) have suffered this same problem.
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Bluebell Carrier Armoured O.P. No1 Mk3 W. T84991 Carrier Bren No2.Mk.I. NewZealand Railways. NZR.6. Dodge WC55. 37mm Gun Motor Carriage M6 Jeep Mb #135668 So many questions....
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#5
06-01-12, 17:23
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Cable Clamps and Protect the Cable
Hi
Lynn and Ken's point about the welding cable are on the mark. Adding a ground cable from the battery ground to the chassis to the engine will cure a lot of problems. I've gone over to generally making my own cables using heavy welding cable or heavy fine wire cable from electrical supplier. While your at it get the lug ends from them I like to crimp the lugs on to the cable and while they are nice and clean solder them as well for the best electrical conductivity. Be sure though that when running your power side of the cable that you use cable clamps to keep the cable in place. Check your routing to be sure of any points were it rubs against anything. One problem with the welding cable that I have encountered is that the insulation is little softer than I'd like and is prone to wearing through. I had a cable fire because of this on a new installation, my own fault didn't have enough cable clamps. When I replaced the cable after the fire I slid a section of hose over it at the wear point. Cheers Phil
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Phil Waterman `41 C60L Pattern 12 `42 C60S Radio Pattern 13 `45 HUP http://canadianmilitarypattern.com/ New e-mail Philip@canadianmilitarypattern.com
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#6
06-01-12, 18:00
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Clamping and insulating the cable is a good point Phil.
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kenney
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#7
06-01-12, 19:32
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Thanks folks!
I had spotted the welding cable and wasn't sure, but I'll give it a go with some conduit in the important places Any ideas for the best way to get at the switch and starter motor? The switch in particular looks like it's in a particularly awkward spot. TTFN Lauren
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