T16 restoration starts in earnest

andrew honychurch · #1 27-11-11, 09:55

thanks Guys. I had to fit about 15 new studs, and its only on two of these that I am getting a weep. What I need to do is a compression test at some stage just to make sure that I dont have a head gasket problem, but I am sure I dont. Am trying to work out where the water will be coming from. I guess it must be through the thread at the bottom of the stud and all the way up, as long as the head gasket is holding the only place for it to get out is through the top. Having started with two leaking water pumps I now only have one, but it just wont stop. I have bought a couple of NOS pumps but am reluctant to fit it as I am hoping the dripper will stop soon. Its just a bit of a bore as I havent filled it with anti-freeze yet in case I have to drain it down to do the pump and lose all the solution. Sadly my engine does not have the correct taps in the block for draining only plugs so the water will go all over the centre engine bay unless one of you has a cunning plan. I feel the need for some more on track testing

RichardT10829 · #2 27-11-11, 11:04

you could drill and tap the fixed plug then perhaps put the brass tap on ? or put a T piece on the lower hose with a take off which you could use as a draining siphon type affair.. the latter would be much easier methinks

Lynn Eades · #3 27-11-11, 11:27

Put some plastic over the rad filler to slow down the flow when you pull the plug.
I have read that leaking from the studs is a common fault on rebuild.
Go to Redsheaders.com, and have a read.
Adding antifreeze will most likely increase the leaks!

andrew honychurch · #4 27-11-11, 12:50

what I really need is a right angle adapter that fits into the block where the current square headed plug is and then a Jeep type drain plug which will direct the water out through the hole in the floor. So anyone with some US pipe threaded taper male ended right angle convertors please let me know. I can get the threads if there is a serious chance of having some. thx

andrew honychurch · #5 18-02-12, 15:14

the weather has cleared a bit here in Kent, and I have taken the opportunity to get cracking on the T16 again. Received my nice new reproduction seats and cushions from Allied Forces Canvas. A superb job will post up some photos soon.

I have decided against remanufacturing my petrol tanks as they are very solid indeed but pretty nasty inside. I have just cut the ends out of one and was planning on sandblasting it and rewelding the ends up. The other tank is much better and I wonder whether anyone can advise on how to clean the inside out so its fit for petrol? I guess when I sandblast the bad one, I cannot paint it so it will have to be left au naturel. Any ideas how to stop it rusting up again? Photos to follow.

Phil Waterman · #6 18-02-12, 16:05

Hi Andrew

I've been looking at the same issue of fuel tanks on on of my CMPs and I'm seriously looking at leaving the tank as a shell in putting a fuel cell inside.

Part of the reason is that a smaller tank may actually be a blessing in this world of changing gasoline that does not have the shelf life (here in the states) of what we grew up with.

Just a thought.

Cheers Phil

Blackpowder44 (RIP) · #7 18-02-12, 22:27

Quote:

Originally Posted by andrew honychurch

the weather has cleared a bit here in Kent, and I have taken the opportunity to get cracking on the T16 again. Received my nice new reproduction seats and cushions from Allied Forces Canvas. A superb job will post up some photos soon.

I have decided against remanufacturing my petrol tanks as they are very solid indeed but pretty nasty inside. I have just cut the ends out of one and was planning on sandblasting it and rewelding the ends up. The other tank is much better and I wonder whether anyone can advise on how to clean the inside out so its fit for petrol? I guess when I sandblast the bad one, I cannot paint it so it will have to be left au naturel. Any ideas how to stop it rusting up again? Photos to follow.

My method of cleaning petrol tanks is to put some sharp sand into it and lash it onto the front of a cement mixer and run it for a couple of hours adding more sand if neccesery. Then use Porseal to line the tank, John.

andrew honychurch · #8 18-02-12, 23:41

some good ideas guys, thanks. I am thinking of either sandblasting the worse of the two tanks or if I can find someone who acid dips them locally maybe that. There is a lot of solder around the seams though, so unsure how the acid will affect that. Anyway here are some photos of the tanks. All pretty solid, one small how, just pretty grotty inside.

horsa · #9 19-02-12, 05:02

If you have the tanks dipped, talk with the staff first to find out if their chemicals will cause the solder joints to let go. I know the place I used here in the USA had chemicals that would dissolve the rust on steel with no adverse affects but it also dissolved pot-metal and some other things which was a bad surprise for me with one T-16 part.