Paint codes and suppliers?

[Casey B]

I am sure there are others out there that asked this but am not sure where to find it here...achives maybe but paint code for M38A1 CDn 1953

I have it as The paint is 997A Olive Drab 24087 can this be confirmed as with the discription of it being a semi gloss and used on the 67's as well?

I am on the wet west coast of Canada so not sure if there is a supplier out this way but have a line on one in Burington Ont Thanks

[Bob Carriere]

The OD 24087 is indeed the semi gloss OD paint made by Gillespie.

The 34087 is the full flat OD.

Single gallons $29.50 US from RAPCO in Texas.... but then you need to add $23.00 for Hazardous material when you have it shipped.

Gillespie covers very well..... had very poor expereince with AERVOE...... needed 3 coats and fades in sunlight something fearce..... not enough pigmentation for my taste.

Peter de Bella.... Jeep supplier from NY state sells a Randolh product is I think is the best.... shade is similar to 34087...... one coats does it..... very thick paint.... high pigment solids........... really needs to be sprayed.... brushed it leave too heavy a coat and can hide details. You need a drill and a propeller paint mixer if the can has been sitting for more than 30 days.

NOTE.... all my experience is with FLAT paint.

Some of the West coast guys should be able to tell you if there are any readily available suppliers in BC.

Bob C

[Casey B]

Thanks for the info Bob yes flat is much easier to use and works well on everything it seems...figures i get the one that needs semi gloss LOL thanks again...Casey

[r.morrison]

CaseyB: If you want paint for your jeep, I live in Vancouver and can have it matched for you in whatever shine you want it in. Can even get it put into spray bombs, if you want. Spray bombs are costly and you have to get a certain quantity made. Do you have an actual sample of what you want? Email me if your interested at rob.mor@shaw.ca Cheers...Robert

[Casey B]

yes i think I would be interested I wonder if you can use the codes that others have sent to me to match or will I need a sample of this colour? 997A Olive Drab 24087 I may have a part that is in good paint condition for a match...? Let you know and do let me know...thanks so much Robert

[rob love]

I'll vouch for buying the paint from Rapco, and having it shipped to a border parcel place. I think by the time I got my 8 gallons in (4 primer and 4 of the green) it worked out to $38 a gallon. Best part is the paint is compatible with the primer, and it is fresh.

Recommended reducer to spray is Xylene which can usually be found at the household paint stores like color your world. If you try to use regular thinners, it will just curdle up and clog your gun.

[Casey B]

How many gallons do youthink my M38A1 will take one of each...hopfully only...? maybe two of each...? to do the whole thing if I was to take the tub off and sand blast etc...?

[Bob Carriere]

2 gallons...... you do not want to be just one cup short!!!!!

Let me explain...... unless you have a professional paint shop and can have all your parts ready at once..... and the tub on a rotisserie....

You will be loading your gun more than once and some waste can be expected...left over in gun.... in can..... washing out...etc.....

You will probably want to give a second coat to everything particualrly the underneath....

...and you will want some left over for touch ups..... best kept in glass canning jars that you can select for size so as to have a minimum of air inside. Use a section of plastic sandwich bag on the jar so the canning ring will not stick....... don't let you wife know you are using her spare canning jars.

Bob C.

[Casey B]

Thanks Bob question does it use a curing agent that you have to add to it then paint like an epoxy or is it reduce and paint dry?
Also do you know if it can be used with any red oxide primer? or is it only compatible with it's own priming system? I am speaking of the Repco paint system?

Thanks Casey

[Bob Carriere]

The RAPCO paint and De Bella are both old fashion paint used with a reducer and air dried...... much easier to re-apply a second coat. I have used it on small part using regular sandable red primer from CTC.

Now primer wise I have a particular process.

I sandblast everything and spray with a degreaser...air/sun dry...... spray with a metal prep solution which is diluted phosphoric acid....etches the metal leaves a slight gray dust finish. If the solution is too strong the dust finished is removed with a clean new 3M pad.

The I give it usually two coats of POR 15 coating.... one gray one black.... 2 to 3 days to cure properly. The POR finish is so hard and so slick paint will not usually stick or adhere to it. I then have two choice.... use a self etching primer which is sprayed on..... very thin coat light grey...or for pitted surfaces POR sells a baby blue polymer coating which is fairly thick and is self levelling..... it can be sanded and a second coat applied to fill pits even better. Once fully cured 24+ hours I can spray two coats of OD flat.....usually a first coat built up by two or three passes. Flat paint flashes very fast in the sun on warm metal........ wait 30 to 40 minutes and give it a final wet coat of the OD flat.

Once dried you have a very though surface. How though..?

I did the cast steel axle housing both front and back with that process.

When re-assembling the axles using home made axle stands that are about 40 inches tall..... the axle tubes were resting on two 1 inch wide U shape saddles ..one at each end. Well over the weeks we twisted the axles one way then the other way as we assembled all the parts.... we actually wore out the OD paint and the primer..... but the grey POR paint was visible and not damaged..... we reprimed and repainted.....

POR is classified as a "coating" not a paint. In layman's term it is crazy glue with a pigment...... it sets with humidity...... you cannot paint from the can has it will harden on you like bad Viagra...... I usually pour enough for a job in a plastic coffee cup..... caution... it will melt the cup.... I know. I only spray paint outside with a mask, gloves, faceshield and clean underwear.

If spilled on your skin.... you are good for at least a week before some of the skin actually falls off.......

if the fumes are ingested while painting it will hardened in your lungs with humidity and you will wheeze until you croak..... so outside with a breeze.... with a mask.....

I live in a rural area...... all my neighbours have died.

All joking aside it is a tremendous product that can be used if you are careful... we usually paint brush the stuff.... and throw the brush after as it is not worth cleaning.

I am too old to be shot in the back by a jealous husband and I never smoked so I have to die of something.

Hope I have not scared you.......

Bob

[Casey B]

Not at all i have used the POR system for My Chevelle running gear as well as Powder coating...both really wear well and cost alot too..LOL I will probaly use her till i put her to sleep at the Museum for the winter then take her out of hibernation and then try to take her appart for the body and paint...i really am not into the toatl pristine looking jeep but want her to look used but not beaten...LOL She needs a little TLC now then some new paint and a side bracket for the .30cal pass. side! reading this Dan...hint hint?

[rob love]

The side mounted GPMG swingarm was made for the Cdn2 and 3 Jeeps. The Jeeps of the 50s era would have had the pedestal mount in the rear (although not common).

[Casey B]

Yes but Alas Mine had one mounted there as the holes match the 67 I have yep both have the holes with the slant to them...and a friend has the mount as well..not one but two right Dan..hint hint? LOL maybe he'll read this and want to make some quick money. I did see while i was under it the mounting plate for the pedisatl mounted MG right in the middle of the floor slightly aft of the seat backs. Hmmm got me thinking!

[Casey B]

Okay decided to go with the Rapco people down south and saw the paint i need for the M38 i was thinking of going with the black Zinc Oxide primer as i thaought easier to cover with the OD green finish as oppossed to the Grey Zinc Oxide or red Oxide...any thoughts on this that may make me change my mind before ordering...? thanks Casey soon to be Headcase...LOL

[Bob Carriere]

I would go wtih grey as it is easier to see if you have proper coverage.....even on the second wet coat.... you will probably find some areas you though was covered but was only misted over. Yes scratches will show easier...... but you can and will toouch up anyways..... my least favorite would beblack oxide for the same contrasting reason....

Don't forget to mix paint very well.......

Bob

[Casey B]

Thanks Bob Good point about the respray and coverage...LOL Not worried about scratches..LOL rust now there's a worry LOL we get wet out this way rain..and then some more roain...LOL Thanks again for the advice Casey