Richie's Mk1 Restoration

RichardT10829 · #1 02-05-11, 11:05

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ganmain Tony

Richie

A handy way to get the studs out is simply to put two nuts on the same stud and do them up so they are together. This has the effect of 'locking' them onto the stud. Then put the ring spanner (dont use and open ender or a shifter) on the bottom one and start to undo. Should get em out with no marks and no hassles.

yes that would be a stud box where i am from dude hahahahahaha there are propper ones on the market but doing the nut method is what i usually do

RichardT10829 · #2 02-05-11, 11:09

engine is canadian built 24 stud unit and was last serviced in 1945 so methinks it may be an earlier one.

the mains and big ends were on 010 thou and the bore is 030 oversize using a three ring piston.

Lynn i will get some close ups. it is not the pin where the hole is mate, that is bit is ok

its up one side and has rotted through i could weld it up or tidy the mess into a nice hole for further drainage.....will most likely weld it though.

i think i managed to reveal bits of the original paint which i can only describe as a very dark grey...may not be original but it was like a hard enamel and there was nothing else under it ?

RichardT10829 · #3 02-05-11, 11:45

no lip on the top this may have been machined off at some point perhaps ?

Richard Farrant · #4 02-05-11, 12:49

Quote:

Originally Posted by RichardT10829

yes that would be a stud box where i am from dude hahahahahaha there are propper ones on the market but doing the nut method is what i usually do

Richie,

To be correct, a stud box is for fitting studs. It is usually made from a piece of hex bar threaded all the way through with a set screw in one end, when the hex is screwed on to a stud, the set screw or bolt is tightened down and stud wound in. They do not work in a unscrewing motion, for that you need one of the different types of stud remover, or as Tony says, two nuts locked together, which works well in the absence of a tool.

RichardT10829 · #5 02-05-11, 16:03

DAMMIT Rich......i looked on the forum and thought you had ID'd my engine........

shaun · #6 02-05-11, 18:12

Richie i will ID your engine for you "ITS A V8 Ford !!!! " he he he he

RichardT10829 · #7 02-05-11, 19:05

i am wondering if it is a merc ?

anyways i have extracted all the studs now and anything else that bolts into the block.... all went well except one stud which i have sheered off in the block... guess iam stronger than i thought ! on a positive note at least it pulled now before i had gone through countless gaskets and frustration !

GIT !!!!

next step is to get it chemically cleaned and the cam bearings pressed out (and new ones put in)

get the block drilled out now darnit....

bring home, paint and pollish the faces etc prior to rebuild.

Richard Farrant · #8 02-05-11, 19:58

Quote:

Originally Posted by RichardT10829

... all went well except one stud which i have sheered off in the block...

get the block drilled out now darnit....

You can often get the broken part out by welding a nut on the stud, the heat will expand the stud then when it cools may break its hold on the thread and unscrew, nothing to loose really.

eddy8men · #9 02-05-11, 21:23

i sheared a bolt trying to get a brake drum off a churchill gearbox today and ended up using the tried and tested nut and weld trick, trouble is everytime i tried to undo it the weld broke and the nut just came off the stud, i'll try again tomorrow when i've more time.

eddy