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  #1  
Old 21-12-10, 05:06
David DeWeese David DeWeese is offline
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Location: Plano, Texas
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Default wood

Hi Bob,
Used white pine for the boards.
Bought one of those adjustable width dado blades from Harbor Freight and installed it on a table saw for the joints. Once you get it dialed-in it works well, but boards have to be very straight, plus the wider the boards are the harder it is to get the grooves right. A hammer and wood block still had to be used to get them together...
Will dissasemble the wood and paint all the edges before painting the body.
Thanks, David

Last edited by David DeWeese; 25-12-10 at 17:17.
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  #2  
Old 21-12-10, 17:29
George McKenzie George McKenzie is offline
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Default C8 progress in Texas

I saw this done by cutting a grove in both edges of the plank and then a square rod of wood was hamered in the grove in both boards when you join them together instead of a tongue and a grove.Raw linseed oil 2/3 and 1/3 turpentine is a good treatment for wood .
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  #3  
Old 02-01-11, 16:35
David DeWeese David DeWeese is offline
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Default wood and body

Thanks George for the wood treatment formula.
Had a problem with the strength of the rear body in that the tailgate opening was very hard to keep square. You can lean back on the sides and it will bend.
There is a support under the tailgate area to help stop this on this rear body,(photo 1), but uses only a few small rivets for strengthening the tailgate opening.
Checked my available photos and found that apparently there was a problem with the design of this area of the rear body. Photo 2 shows what looks like a field modification to try and strengthen this area, and photo 3 shows even another attempt at beefing-up the rear tailgate opening.
After some head banging, I decided to make sort of a "hybrid" rear area using the lower section from photo 1 and the plate steel brackets from photo 3.
Not exactly original for a C8 Duple rear body, but much stronger!
Photos courtesy of Mike Kelly's CD and Tony Smith.
Thanks, David
Attached Images
File Type: jpg c89.jpg (79.3 KB, 134 views)
File Type: jpg MCGreek.notestrengtheners(comp).jpg (51.4 KB, 132 views)
File Type: jpg c811.jpg (24.1 KB, 121 views)
File Type: jpg DSCF0245.jpg (50.0 KB, 116 views)
File Type: jpg DSCF0248.jpg (39.6 KB, 98 views)

Last edited by David DeWeese; 11-06-11 at 05:38.
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  #4  
Old 03-01-11, 01:39
David DeWeese David DeWeese is offline
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Location: Plano, Texas
Posts: 357
Default tread plate

Hi,
Got lucky today while searching through a scrap pile and found a good size piece of vintage tread plate. Have seen this type used through the 40's on trucks and other equipment.
Used part of it to make the rear step plate on the C8 body floor. Looks much better than the modern stuff...
Thanks, David
Attached Images
File Type: jpg DSCF0257.jpg (53.5 KB, 76 views)
File Type: jpg DSCF0260.jpg (56.2 KB, 80 views)
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  #5  
Old 10-01-11, 02:42
David DeWeese David DeWeese is offline
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Location: Plano, Texas
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Default tailgate time...

Hi,
Spent the weekend constructing the tailgate and hinge hardware for the rear body. More tongue and groove lumber had to be cut and a 3/4 inch strap steel frame also made up to trim the edges of the tailgate. Still have to add the counter-sunk wood screws around the framework..
Hinges and straps were then constructed. Will add the angle iron to the inside of tailgate and the carriage bolts next weekend as the weather turned cold and forced me into a warm house for the rest of the day.
Thanks, David
Attached Images
File Type: jpg DSCF0274.jpg (34.3 KB, 63 views)
File Type: jpg DSCF0276.jpg (43.0 KB, 58 views)
File Type: jpg DSCF0275.jpg (32.0 KB, 64 views)

Last edited by David DeWeese; 11-01-11 at 04:21. Reason: removed b.s.
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  #6  
Old 17-01-11, 15:35
David DeWeese David DeWeese is offline
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Location: Plano, Texas
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Default latches

Hi,
More small parts had to me made from the rear body tailgate. I'm sure the original pieces were cast, but this was the best I could do with hardware store materials and normal shop tools.
The latch is kind of clever as gravity makes the pin get tighter as you wiggle the tailgate.
Doesn't look like much progress, but what you see is is the result of a day of trial-and-error fabrication.
Oh well, slow progress is better than no progress.
Thanks, David
Attached Images
File Type: jpg DSCF0286.jpg (24.4 KB, 72 views)
File Type: jpg DSCF0295.jpg (19.9 KB, 73 views)
File Type: jpg DSCF0293.jpg (42.9 KB, 78 views)
File Type: jpg DSCF0290.jpg (43.5 KB, 72 views)
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  #7  
Old 17-01-11, 16:02
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gordon gordon is offline
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Default Looks fine to me

That's at least as well made as the original was David, maybe better.

When you get a coat of paint on the whole thing it'll all come together.
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  #8  
Old 17-01-11, 19:04
Alex Blair (RIP) Alex Blair (RIP) is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Ottawa ,Canada
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Default An Artist..

Quote:
Originally Posted by David DeWeese View Post
Hi,
More small parts had to me made from the rear body tailgate. I'm sure the original pieces were cast, but this was the best I could do with hardware store materials and normal shop tools.
The latch is kind of clever as gravity makes the pin get tighter as you wiggle the tailgate.
Doesn't look like much progress, but what you see is is the result of a day of trial-and-error fabrication.
Oh well, slow progress is better than no progress.
Thanks, David
David ..your workmanship is excellent and I really enjoy the progress pictures..I admire you ability to think your way through your parts manufacturing process..
You were born a hundred years too late and would have made a million bucks as an old time blacksmith and wagon repair expert..You would have have a yard full of buggy's and wagons to repair..
maybe you have a bunch of modern buggy's to restore..you do very nice work and I admire your ability...and I have been a Mechanic for 45 years so know what is involved in what you are doing..
Paint, as Gordon said ,will set your work off as a masterpiece.

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