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  #1  
Old 13-12-10, 01:34
Alex Blair (RIP) Alex Blair (RIP) is offline
"Mr. Manual", sadly no longer with us
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Ottawa ,Canada
Posts: 2,916
Default Super

Dave..
You are a dedicated craftsman..a thing of beauty..nice job..
You gotta love it to do what we do and I can see you are truely in love.
No way else for me to describe what we do..
Some better than others ..
Well done.
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  #2  
Old 14-12-10, 04:59
David DeWeese David DeWeese is offline
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Plano, Texas
Posts: 357
Default love/hate relationship....

Hi Alex.
Can't say I love the lil' bastard, but I can say I've kept it around much longer than my last two wives.....lol
Thanks, David
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  #3  
Old 20-12-10, 04:17
David DeWeese David DeWeese is offline
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Plano, Texas
Posts: 357
Default more wood...

Hi,
Spent today making more tongue-and-groove lumber for the floor of the rear body, and installing it. This was very time consuming as the boards had to fit together exactly and the body must be very "square" for the floor pieces to fit correctly.
I realized I hate working with wood. Still have a tailgate to do.
Thanks, David
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File Type: jpg DSCF0236.jpg (43.6 KB, 42 views)
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  #4  
Old 21-12-10, 03:53
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Hammond, Ontario
Posts: 5,259
Default Curious.....

What kind of wood are you using....? Are you using a table mounted router to cut your grooves...? are you panning to paint before final assembly..?

Bob
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  #5  
Old 21-12-10, 05:06
David DeWeese David DeWeese is offline
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Plano, Texas
Posts: 357
Default wood

Hi Bob,
Used white pine for the boards.
Bought one of those adjustable width dado blades from Harbor Freight and installed it on a table saw for the joints. Once you get it dialed-in it works well, but boards have to be very straight, plus the wider the boards are the harder it is to get the grooves right. A hammer and wood block still had to be used to get them together...
Will dissasemble the wood and paint all the edges before painting the body.
Thanks, David

Last edited by David DeWeese; 25-12-10 at 17:17.
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  #6  
Old 21-12-10, 17:29
George McKenzie George McKenzie is offline
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Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Northern Alberta CA
Posts: 451
Default C8 progress in Texas

I saw this done by cutting a grove in both edges of the plank and then a square rod of wood was hamered in the grove in both boards when you join them together instead of a tongue and a grove.Raw linseed oil 2/3 and 1/3 turpentine is a good treatment for wood .
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  #7  
Old 02-01-11, 16:35
David DeWeese David DeWeese is offline
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Plano, Texas
Posts: 357
Default wood and body

Thanks George for the wood treatment formula.
Had a problem with the strength of the rear body in that the tailgate opening was very hard to keep square. You can lean back on the sides and it will bend.
There is a support under the tailgate area to help stop this on this rear body,(photo 1), but uses only a few small rivets for strengthening the tailgate opening.
Checked my available photos and found that apparently there was a problem with the design of this area of the rear body. Photo 2 shows what looks like a field modification to try and strengthen this area, and photo 3 shows even another attempt at beefing-up the rear tailgate opening.
After some head banging, I decided to make sort of a "hybrid" rear area using the lower section from photo 1 and the plate steel brackets from photo 3.
Not exactly original for a C8 Duple rear body, but much stronger!
Photos courtesy of Mike Kelly's CD and Tony Smith.
Thanks, David
Attached Images
File Type: jpg c89.jpg (79.3 KB, 134 views)
File Type: jpg MCGreek.notestrengtheners(comp).jpg (51.4 KB, 132 views)
File Type: jpg c811.jpg (24.1 KB, 121 views)
File Type: jpg DSCF0245.jpg (50.0 KB, 116 views)
File Type: jpg DSCF0248.jpg (39.6 KB, 98 views)

Last edited by David DeWeese; 11-06-11 at 05:38.
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