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#1
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Good advice. To be honest, I am being a bit lasy but now I have stripped the engine all but the valves, I think I will do it as it was done originally. It may well be that as the engine had little use since I last ground the valves and set the tappets all it needs is a relap which is not a big job. Just awaiting me finding the tools to take out the valves. I have just taken out the crank and the front two mains were down to the copper, so it is just as well I did this. The shells have Ford USA T and 0. I assume, please tell me if I am wrong that this means standard? thanks for the comments and advice.
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#2
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There are 2 types of adjustable tappets redily available, One type has an adjustable screw and a locknut but requires special spanners to get to the end ones, the type I used required drilling the block into the camfolower bore. I used a drill with a right angle head which made the job a lot easier. I have since done the valves on an engine for my carrier. It took more than a day to do them as the valve machine was 1/2 a km away. Next time I will fit a set of adjustibles! they are available from outlets here in Aus. John
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#3
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The adjustable lifters for a flattie are foolproof. They're a lot easier to adjust than the other way and never give any trouble.
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1940 Cab 11 C8 Wireless with 1A2 box & 11 set 1940 Cab 11 C8 cab and chassis 1940 Cab 11 C15 with 2A1 & Motley mount & Lewis gun 1940 Cab 11 F15A w/ Chev rear ends 1941 Cab 12 F15A 1942-44 Cab 13 F15A x 5 1942 cab 13 F15A with 2B1 box 1943 cab 13 F15A with 2H1 box 1943 Cab 13 C8A HUP 1944 Cab 13 C15A with 2C1 box 1943 Cletrac M2 High Speed Tractor MkII Bren gun carrier chassis x 2 |
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