Hard or impossible shifting out of 4x4 with C60 CMP- Tip

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Bob

You asked some good questions added some observations. One of the things I've done is made up a cheat sheet which shows where all of the linkages should be for each of the modes, this lets me use a big screw driver to shift it into the correct location when everything else fails.

I really suspect the culprit in my case was a very minor movement of the bracket for the linkage cross shaft. Now that I got adjustment it right again it really works good, and I've been racking the truck around on rough ground.

Though I do remember seeing an old hot rod tip about adding a pair of thrust struts between the engine and frame to keep the engine from moving when stronger clutches are installed to cut down on clutch chatter.

From your test drive video it looks like you have been really twisting your truck around too. Maybe it will sort of settle into a good position and allow adjustment the to work.

Now to your question about the throttle springs best fix the yo-yo throttle was the original one being under powered enough that you just put your foot hard on the floor. But yes it does require a fairly hard spring pull. Like the original I used two springs but I had to try several different ones each a little stronger until I found two that worked.

Cheers Phil

[Bob Carriere]

HI Phil

I grafted the 216 pivot stud and the 216 bellcrank onto the 261..... reason being they were of different size and parts could not be interchanged. since the 261 block did not have the forward stud for the 2 springs I fabricated a small plate which bolts on the 216 using existing treaded holes.... and installed two springs like the 216..... then added another return spring from the bottom connection of the carb linkage dwon to a clip attached to one of the bolts on the oil pan...... this is a common connection on late 58/59 Chev trucks...... also added one ahead of the floor toe board...... all in an attempt to hold back on linkage slop........... and I guess that colecctively they are still tooooo soft.

Now you raise an interesting point..... with a 216 you could probably stomp the gas pedal to the floor and the motor would react a lot slower...... the 261 tends to pick up the revs immediately. I drove M37 for quite a while and except when starting from dead stop in most cases you would floor the gas pedal and the engine would spool up slowly. on rough roads you selected an appropriate gear hi-lo range and floor it hanging on the steering wheel.... engine was always controlled by the governor anyways.

I am now wondering if the angle of my foot.... seat position..... is not too acute in the cab 11/12 configeration..... the seating position in a M37 is much more comfortable.... more erect... with thighs almost parallel to the floor.... in the cab 11 with my long legs and sitting low my knees are actually higher than my hips......

So what do I modify.... the truck or the old guy...?

By the way..... I am waiting for a freshly rebuilt Carter YF 735s from the Oaks brothers in TO..... I had queried them when I had my leaking Rochester issue.
Well out of the blue they followed up with me.... just like the good old days when the owner really cared about business. The carb in question will be totally rebuilt and chromated the NOS yellow green color. According to specs it was used as a replacement aftermarket on 261.... same bolt pattern and will accept the original air cleaner..... The carb is vented differently and should not leak..... only time, test will tell....

One more question..... on the 261 the stock vacuum connections coming off the side of the intake manifold will seriously interfere with the engine cover. Mine has a 1/2 pipe thread six sided huge brass fitting..... which I will need to remove and relocate...... I am scared stiff of drilling a hole in the intake manifold somewhere else..... one is I might mess it up.... or filings from the tapping/drilling will drop in the intake..... not really interested in removing and reinstalling the manifolds.... tell me there is an easier way... lazy way.... what did you do on yours..... ? I do have spare manifolds in case of a disaster....

Bob

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Bob

To your last point about the Vacuum Attachment point on 261 manifold in your Pat 11, look at the pictures below. In the picture of my 261 in the Pat 13 you can see that there is enough room for the side of the manifold. In the second picture you see the original 216 set up in Beauty which I think might be a solution for you. The vacuum for the brake booster comes off a spacer place between the carb and the manifold. Of course you would have to make a special one as the throat size and bolt spacing are different. An aluminum plate may be 5/8 or 3/4 thick would let you tap in with the vacuum facing straight back.

Cheers Phil

[Bob Carriere]

Will see if I can find some soft metal to work with....... will visit COHEN & COHEN to see if I can find a slab of brass or copper....not to keen on using aluminium as it can be hard to grind and I can't welded it..

I have a solid slice off a 8 inch Berylium bar from NRC..... but apparently it is very toxic when you machine or grind.....

I like the idea of a spacer........

Bob C.